A brioche study, part one: the approach

Analysing the impact of the egg-to-milk ratio in brioche formulas In the first part of my forever-unfinished feature How to be a pastry chef? – the checklist, I asked you some questions about brioche with the aim to develop your curiosity and drive you to research important techniques. It went along the following lines: Do you know brioche dough is an emulsion? Do you treat ...

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My ultimate kanelbullar

Tomorrow is the 4th of October. A date that doesn’t go unnoticed in Sweden. Yes, tomorrow is kanelbullens dag [cinnamon roll day]. I must have felt that this post – which I promised to share with you long before I even knew kanelbullar had their own day – was waiting in my drafts for a reason. This is a recipe I first made in Åsen, ...

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Chasing rugbrød, part one

We waked, in the two cabins in those happy days, just before the sun came up, when the birds were in their loudest clamor of morning joy. Wrapped each in a blanket, George and I stepped out from our doors, each trying to call the other, and often meeting on the grass between. We ran to the river and plunged in,—oh, how cold it was!—laughed ...

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Sugar, acid and pectin content of fruits

It seems like we’re having a bit of a jam week around here. I guess it’s only natural when the world around us blooms in an exponential kind of way. Here we’ve had a rather unusual month of May. Lots of sun. Lots of rain too. And because the temperatures rarely get above 20°C, once they will – perhaps after mid-summer – fruits will suddenly ...

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Small-batch rhubarb jam

I made this jam a week ago today. Of course, I had planned on telling you about it straight away, but exciting projects, a redesign, and kick-ass grades in my Swedish classes (insert thumb-up emoji here) got in the way. With Lisa’s comment in mind, I stirred the fruits into the hot syrup. She wanted a simple jar recipe. And here it is. No endless ...

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A quick note on anthocyanins and pH

I absolutely love to make jam; whether it’s ten kilograms of fruits or five hundred grams. Somehow, I’ve always found the process very calming, not unlike some sort of kitchen meditation. One thing I find especially wonderful is how much brighter the colour of the jam becomes after the addition of acid – and for the record, I use citric acid in most cases. This ...

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Brutaly honest banana cake

If you ever thought I’d leave bananas alone for another year or so, please pretend these words never existed while we take care of the cake you see above. No evidence will remain and we won’t even have to tell the universe about it all. Case closed. But if you’re anything like us, then I guess it’s a whole other story. Yes, in our house, ...

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Canelés au beurre noisette et au bourbon

[Brown butter and bourbon canelés] There are stories that never get old, no matter how many times you tell them. Here is a collections of the ones I never-ever want to forget. Every evening, we go to the pond by the house on the other side of the path. Just before the sun sets. From there, we overlook the far-away lake. But really, all I ...

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Macarons au chocolat blanc caramélisé et aux noisettes

[Caramelised white chocolate and hazelnut macarons] I’d like to tell you I’ve made macarons today. I had planned to. Really. Last week, we bought mandelmjöl [ground almonds] and florsocker [icing sugar]; mjölkchoklad [milk chocolate] and vispgrädde [whipping cream]. But you see, we’ve been for walks everyday. At times, in the forest. Or by the river. And, always, in the snow. Christmas trees everywhere around us ...

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Cake à la banane rôtie

[Roasted banana cake] I once read that the universe didn’t need another banana cake. In that case, the universe and I might have to disagree. We don’t disagree often though. In fact, most of the time, we’re in a symbiotic agreement that all is in its place. Let me tell you about a few nights ago. It might have been Monday or Tuesday, I don’t ...

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La tarte tropézienne

There is the sound of the icebergs bumping into each other with every wave, not unlike a distant thunderstorm. There is the forest that I’ve walked through so many times before, now covered in a thick blanket of snow. There are lakrits [liquorice] cookies in the oven. And lights by every window we see. Yes, this is it. Sweden. And really, it’s just as wonderful ...

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