Carrés au citron

[Lemon squares] You can ask any chef; staff meals are a luxury in the restaurant industry. Over the past ten years, I’ve come across almost anything. The baguettes we’d be sent to buy at the wonderful Des gâteaux et du pain, sliced in half lengthways, and placed on the bench along with a container of Bordier butter, one of home-made strawberry jam, and one filled ...

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Pastry chef tips – Tour double

Single fold? Double fold? When it comes to laminated doughs, you find two types of tours (literally turns, although I tend to refer to them as folds in English): the tour simple – or single fold – and the tour double – otherwise known as double fold. I’m planning on making a post describing both types, along with some notes; but today’s pastry chef tip ...

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Fromage blanc cake

There was a day spent in the garden. A rake in the hands, and dead leaves piled high on a wheelbarrow. That day, the sun was high and warm, just like the two eagles we’d seen earlier, right after sunrise. The following morning was an entirely different story. A story made of snowflakes and a crackling fireplace. Both lasted all day, for the record. I ...

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On pâte sucrée (and my favourite lemon meringue tart)

I intended for today’s post to be short – almost-wordless short. Really, it was just meant to be a recipe that I developed for a nut-free pâte sucrée. And that what it is, in essence. With a few notes around it. In France – or at least at the pâtisseries where I worked, and in books and magazines – pâte sucrée will always call for ...

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Our favourite cinnamon shortbreads

It’s still very much winter here in Skellefteå. In fact, we’ve had a blizzard over the weekend; snow, at times twirling around with the winds; and at other times, falling almost horizontally. A western under the snow. Not unlike the Dyonisos album that lullabied my teenage years. Oh love me, Oh kiss me, I’m lying on western under the snow You’re the sky of my ...

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A brioche study, recipe: the “generic” brioche (control)

Analysing the impact of the egg-to-milk ratio in brioche formulas The formula The recipe shown below will make two 500g loaves. I chose, however, to make half a batch, yielding to a single loaf, which is something I’ll carry on doing over the next experiments, as the kneading time of a half-recipe takes longer when done in a stand-mixer; more on that to come in ...

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A brioche study, part one: the approach

Analysing the impact of the egg-to-milk ratio in brioche formulas In the first part of my forever-unfinished feature How to be a pastry chef? – the checklist, I asked you some questions about brioche with the aim to develop your curiosity and drive you to research important techniques. It went along the following lines: Do you know brioche dough is an emulsion? Do you treat ...

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My ultimate kanelbullar

Tomorrow is the 4th of October. A date that doesn’t go unnoticed in Sweden. Yes, tomorrow is kanelbullens dag [cinnamon roll day]. I must have felt that this post – which I promised to share with you long before I even knew kanelbullar had their own day – was waiting in my drafts for a reason. This is a recipe I first made in Åsen, ...

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Sugar, acid and pectin content of fruits

It seems like we’re having a bit of a jam week around here. I guess it’s only natural when the world around us blooms in an exponential kind of way. Here we’ve had a rather unusual month of May. Lots of sun. Lots of rain too. And because the temperatures rarely get above 20°C, once they will – perhaps after mid-summer – fruits will suddenly ...

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Small-batch rhubarb jam

I made this jam a week ago today. Of course, I had planned on telling you about it straight away, but exciting projects, a redesign, and kick-ass grades in my Swedish classes (insert thumb-up emoji here) got in the way. With Lisa’s comment in mind, I stirred the fruits into the hot syrup. She wanted a simple jar recipe. And here it is. No endless ...

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A quick note on anthocyanins and pH

I absolutely love to make jam; whether it’s ten kilograms of fruits or five hundred grams. Somehow, I’ve always found the process very calming, not unlike some sort of kitchen meditation. One thing I find especially wonderful is how much brighter the colour of the jam becomes after the addition of acid – and for the record, I use citric acid in most cases. This ...

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Brutaly honest banana cake

If you ever thought I’d leave bananas alone for another year or so, please pretend these words never existed while we take care of the cake you see above. No evidence will remain and we won’t even have to tell the universe about it all. Case closed. But if you’re anything like us, then I guess it’s a whole other story. Yes, in our house, ...

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