Carrés au citron

[Lemon squares] You can ask any chef; staff meals are a luxury in the restaurant industry. Over the past ten years, I’ve come across almost anything. The baguettes we’d be sent to buy at the wonderful Des gâteaux et du pain, sliced in half lengthways, and placed on the bench along with a container of Bordier butter, one of home-made strawberry jam, and one filled ...

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On pâte sucrée (and my favourite lemon meringue tart)

I intended for today’s post to be short – almost-wordless short. Really, it was just meant to be a recipe that I developed for a nut-free pâte sucrée. And that what it is, in essence. With a few notes around it. In France – or at least at the pâtisseries where I worked, and in books and magazines – pâte sucrée will always call for ...

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La tarte tropézienne

There is the sound of the icebergs bumping into each other with every wave, not unlike a distant thunderstorm. There is the forest that I’ve walked through so many times before, now covered in a thick blanket of snow. There are lakrits [liquorice] cookies in the oven. And lights by every window we see. Yes, this is it. Sweden. And really, it’s just as wonderful ...

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Éclairs au chocolat

[Chocolate eclairs] When trees are shaped like hearts; and breakfast means just-brewed coffee slash bike ride slash jonchée eaten as soon as I’ve taken my gum boots off. And we run barefoot in fields of frost. And the grass glows to the moonlight in a way only gems can. With la grande ourse [the great bear] and a feral cat as our only companions for ...

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Mastering crème pâtissière, step by step

It was a day at the end of September. A couple of years ago. I put on my pied-de-poule trousers for the first time since the internship I had done the summer before at Pierre Hermé. I walked up the stairs, to the biggest, most beautiful kitchen I had ever seen, with the aim to make my biggest, most beautiful dream come true. A dream ...

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