Tag: crêpes and pancakes

  • Crêpes complètes

    Crêpes complètes

    And my classical pâte à crêpes [crêpe batter] recipe!

    I’m often asked about the difference between French crêpes and Swedish plättar. It’s a fair question – they share, after all, the same simple pantry ingredients: milk, eggs, flour, salt, sugar and butter. But where crêpes spread thin across a wide pan, plättar are poured into a special cast-iron griddle, forming small, perfectly round pancakes.

    In my world, crêpes are meant to be folded, rolled, filled; while plättar are stacked, eaten by the dozen – best with a spoonful of jam and a cloud of loosely whipped cream.

    I’ve shared my plättar recipe in the past, and it’s still an everyday favourite, happening in our kitchen on an almost-weekly basis. Sometimes, I will even make savoury plättar, although I must admit I’m fond of the slightly chewier, sturdier texture of crêpes for this.
    However, since moving to Sweden, I’ve adapted my crêpe recipe: adding more salt and always using my trusted cast-iron pannkakspanna.

    Let’s have a look at the different ratios between crêpes and plättar. While both share the same base ingredients – milk, eggs, flour, butter, and salt – their proportions create distinct textures.

    Crêpes vs plättar

    CrêpesBakers %PlättarBakers %
    Milk500 ml200%500 ml277.8%
    Eggs480%255.6%
    Flour250 g100%180 g100%
    Butter50 g20%30 g16.7%
    Flaky sea salt2.5 g1%2.5 g1.4%

    Crêpes have a higher proportion of eggs and flour to liquid, giving them structure and elasticity. This makes them sturdy enough to be folded, rolled, or wrapped around both sweet and savoury fillings. The added chewiness also means they hold up well.

    Plättar, on the other hand, have more milk relative to flour and fewer eggs, resulting in a looser, more fluid batter. This makes them feel more custardy than crêpes, with a soft, tender texture. They are also cooked in a larger amount of salted butter, which pools around each pancake, creating lacy, crisp, golden edges with a hint of saltiness.

    Bonne chandeleur!

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    Crêpes complètes

    A thin, golden crêpe, crisp at the edges, soft in the center. The kind you fold around ham, cheese, and a runny egg for a classic crêpe complète or stack with butter and sugar, and a drizzle of lemon juice, for something simple and sweet.
    When making crêpes complètes, one has to stand by the stove, making and serving the crêpes one by one. With the leftover batter, I always make a stack of crêpes, later eaten with jam, crème de marron and chantilly (a favourite), or simply sugar and lemon juice.
    More often than not, I use my basic recipe for both savoury and sweet crêpes. However, if you wanted to make only sweet ones – for a goûter – you’ll find what I usually add to the batter in the notes below.

    Notes

    – For a sweet pâte à crêpes, add 2 tbsp sugar, 1 tbsp vanilla extract, and 2 tbsp dark rum or orange blossom water to the batter.
    – If the batter thickens too much after resting, whisk in a little water to reach a thin, pourable consistency.
    – To grease the pan, my mémé, grand-mère, and my mum always used a halved potato dipped in melted butter or oil. I still do, and often wonder if this is just something we do, or if more people know about it. It works beautifully – coating the pan evenly without excess fat and keeping the crêpes from sticking.
    – This cast-iron pan by Swedish Skeppshult is my ride-or-die whenever making pancakes and crêpes!
    Author: Fanny Zanotti
    Prep Time10 minutes
    Cook Time30 minutes
    Makes 12 22cm crêpes

    Ingredients

    For the batter

    • 250 g plain flour
    • 4 eggs
    • 500 ml milk
    • 50 g melted butter
    • 1 tsp flaky sea salt

    For cooking

    • Butter for the pan

    For a classic crêpe complète (per crêpe)

    • 40 g grated Emmental or cheese of choice
    • 1 slice of ham
    • 1 egg pan-fried sunny-side up

    Instructions

    • In a large bowl, whisk together the eggs, milk, flour and salt into a lumpy batter. Blend using a hand blender, until just smooth. Adjust the batter consistency with a dash of water if needed.
    • Add the melted butter, and blend until incorporated.
    • Cover and let the batter rest for 30 minutes.
    • Heat a knob of butter in a pan over medium heat. Pour in a ladleful of batter, swirling to coat the base. Cook until the surface looks set and no wet patches remain.
    • Sprinkle the cheese evenly over the crêpe, then place a slice of ham and a pan-fried egg in the center.
    • Fold in the edges of the crêpe to create a triangle or a square, leaving the yolk visible in the center. Cook for another minute, then serve immediately.

  • Buckwheat blini

    Buckwheat blini

    & all the trimmings!

    On the 16th of December, with the almost-polar night wrapped around us, the kitchen called. Buckwheat blini felt like the right kind of quiet project – batter rising under a tea towel, thinly sliced shallots steeping in vinegar and sugar.

    One by one, I spooned the mixture into the pan, watching the edges turn golden. We skipped the mustard this time, but there were avocados on the kitchen bench – perfectly ripe and just asking to be part of it all. A dollop of smetana, a slice of smoked salmon, tangy pickled shallots, and a generous squeeze of lemon brought it all together.

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    Buckwheat blini

    Fluffy, nutty buckwheat blini with tangy pickled shallots, creamy smetana, and silky smoked salmon – a dish that feels both indulgent and comforting. Perfect for special occasions, an elegant fika, or even a relaxed weekday dinner. On school nights, I like to serve it buffet-style: a platter of blini, a jar of smetana, and smoked salmon arranged on my favourite plate. Everything in the centre of the table, ready for the three of us to assemble their own.

    Notes

    I’m partial to my plättlägg when making blini. It’s a Swedish pancake pan with shallow indentations, perfect for creating evenly sized, golden rounds that hold their shape beautifully. It’s traditionally used for plättar – small Swedish pancakes – but works wonderfully for blini, too. If you don’t have one, a non-stick frying pan will do just fine.
    Author: Fanny Zanotti
    Prep Time30 minutes
    Cook Time20 minutes
    Total Time1 hour 30 minutes
    Makes 30 blini

    Ingredients

    For the blini

    • 25 g fresh yeast
    • 3 dl whole milk
    • 75 g buckwheat flour
    • 120 g plain flour
    • 2 eggs separated
    • a pinch of flaky sea salt
    • 50 g salted butter melted

    For the pickled shallots

    • 2 shallots peeled and thinly sliced
    • 50 ml distilled vinegar [12%]
    • 90 g caster sugar
    • 150 ml water

    Toppings

    • smetana
    • wholegrain mustard
    • smoked salmon sliced
    • fresh dill to garnish
    • avocado
    • lemon sliced into wedges

    Instructions

    Pickled shallots:

    • Combine the vinegar, sugar, and water in a small saucepan. Bring to the boil, then set aside to cool.
    • Add the sliced shallots to the cooled liquid and leave to pickle while you prepare the blini batter.

    Blini:

    • Crumble the yeast into a large mixing bowl. Warm the milk to 30°C and pour it over the yeast, stirring until dissolved.
    • Gradually whisk in the buckwheat flour and plain flour until the batter is smooth.
    • Separate the eggs, reserving the whites. Beat the yolks and salt into the batter. Cover with a clean tea towel and leave to rise for 30-40 minutes.
    • Melt the butter and whisk the egg whites to stiff peaks. Stir the melted butter into the batter, then gently fold in the whisked egg whites.
    • Heat a blini or non-stick frying pan over a medium heat and add a little butter. Spoon small amounts of batter into the pan to form individual blini. Cook until golden on both sides.

    To serve

    • Place a dollop of smetana on each blini, followed by a slice of smoked salmon and a few rings of pickled shallots. Garnish with fresh dill and lemon juice. Some freshly crushed black pepper or grated horseradish is a favourite too!
    • Serve immediately.

  • Chez Ma Tante’s pancakes

    Chez Ma Tante’s pancakes

    I’ve always been fascinated by fluffy American-style pancakes, perhaps because I didn’t grow up on them. In my childhood, pancakes, crêpes, really, were thin and delicate, the kind you’d fold into four with sugar and lemon or jam from my grand-mère’s wooden cabinet in the garage. The golden, towering stacks always felt like something from a storybook – indulgent, almost impossibly decadent.

    I already have two favourite recipes. One is a buttermilk classic by the great Marion Cunningham, who knew her way around the simplicity of breakfast like no one else. Her recipe reads like a letter from a friend, gently nudging you towards the joy of the everyday. The other is a five-minute wonder, a batter I can whisk together with my eyes closed on mornings when hunger wins over patience.

    And yet, when I stumbled upon Chez Ma Tante’s recipe one morning, I couldn’t resist. It felt like an invitation to try something new. The batter is looser than both of my regular recipes, and the results are ever so wonderful: a light and airy crumb with edges that cook to crisp, caramelised perfection.

    The original recipe calls for a full cup of clarified butter for cooking, but I couldn’t quite commit. A couple of tablespoons did the trick, yielding pancakes that were delicate yet indulgent. I had mine plain, marvelling at the texture and buttery caramelisation, but I can only imagine how they’d taste with a drizzle of maple syrup and a pat of butter melting into every crevice.

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    Chez Ma Tante’s pancakes

    Adapted from the New York Times.
    This is a recipe that doesn’t ask much but rewards you with pancakes that feel a little extraordinary. Perhaps it won’t replace my tried-and-true favourites, but it’s found its place – for mornings when I want pancakes that are both simple and a little special.
    The method is straightforward but with its own charm: sugar, salt, and a surprising 2 ½ tablespoons of baking powder whisked directly into an egg and yolk, before alternating in the milk and flour, finishing with melted butter.
    Serve them plain or with maple syrup and a pat of butter, and you’ll understand why this recipe deserves a spot in your morning repertoire.

    Notes

    On butter and cooking the pancakes:
    Chef Jake Leiber cooks his pancakes in a whole cup of clarified butter, but I prefer a simpler approach. I slice a generous piece of salted butter and stick it to the tines of a fork, using it to butter my cast-iron pan as I go. The butter browns gently, leaving the edges dark, crisp, and delightfully salty.
    On cast-iron:
    When it comes to pancakes, I always reach for my cast iron pan. Preheated over medium-high heat for 5-8 minutes to ensure an even surface, then lowered to medium-low for cooking, it produces pancakes with a light and airy crumb and caramelised edges that crackle under the fork.
    Author: Fanny Zanotti
    Prep Time15 minutes
    Cook Time20 minutes
    Makes 6 large pancakes

    Ingredients

    • 1 egg
    • 1 egg yolk
    • 2 ½ tablespoons 35 g baking powder
    • 2 tablespoons 25 g caster sugar
    • 1 teaspoon 5 g flaky sea salt
    • 300 ml whole milk
    • 130 g plain flour
    • 30 g salted butter melted
    • 60 g cold salted butter for cooking

    Instructions

    • Pre-heat your cast-iron pan on medium-high heat for at least 5 minutes, then reduce to medium-low.
    • In a large bowl, whisk together the egg, sugar, salt, and baking powder.
    • Gradually add the the milk and flour in alternating turns, whisking gently until a lumpy batter forms – do not overmix the batter. Finally, whisk in the 30g of melted butter.
    • Stick the cold butter to the tines of a fork and use it to butter you pan – it should start foaming and sizzling. Pour about 100 ml of batter for each pancake, letting it spread naturally.
    • Cook for about 1 1/2-2 minutes, or until golden brown with crisp edges, then flip and cook for another 1 minute or so on the other side.
    • Repeat with the remaining batter, adding more butter to the pan as needed. Serve warm with extra butter and maple syrup.

  • Kaiserschmarrn

    Kaiserschmarrn

    [Austrian scrambled pancakes]

    In the embrace of late January, breakfasts are the essence of comfort. Through our kitchen windows, we see acres of treetops covered in snow. A tableau that stretches as far as the eyes can see.

    And every weekend morning is the same, almost like a celebration of foreverness. There is the sound of the coffee brewer, a subdued gurgle, akin to a whisper of some sort. There is the crispiness of the icy air through our bedroom window. And the sun that sets before its risen above the hill across the river.

    Our breakfast typically revolve around two cherished options: sunny-side-up eggs on golden toast, sometimes served with kimchi-pickled cabbage, and stacks of fluffy hotcakes draped with maple syrup and bacon – pan-fried until almost too crisp. On Sundays, a full English is practically a necessity.

    Yet, of late, our plates have welcomed the rekindled presence of an old favourite: Kaiserschmarrn – Austrian scrambled pancakes, something I used to make the first year after Sienna was born and nearly forgot about, not unlike a nostalgic symphony on our morning table.

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    Austrian scrambled pancakes

    Kaiserschmarrn [literally, Emperor's mess] is a quintessential Austrian dish that can be best described as a hybrid between a pancake and a fluffy omelette.
    My recipe, adapted from Deb Perelman, has become a true favourite for weekend breakfasts over the years.
    The preparation begins with a basic pancake batter made from eggs, flour, milk, and a touch of sugar. What sets Kaiserschmarrn apart is the technique – the batter is initially cooked as a large pancake before being torn into bite-sized pieces. These torn pieces are then further cooked until golden brown on the outside and delightfully soft and airy on the inside.
    I used to flip the pancake onto a plate, then shred separately, but lately, I've been doing it all in the pan using a wooden spatula, and it's much less messy, which is always a bonus.
    They are traditionally served with a dusting of icing sugar and compote, however I am partial to cottage cheese or fromage blanc, and berries.

    Notes

    On salted butter: After having lived in Sweden for the past nine years or so, I almost exclusively pan-fry and bake using salted butter. And really, I’m not ever going back, EVER. Although I must admit it makes writing recipes harder as the salt content in butter varies greatly across the globe. Here in Sweden it is usually 1.2%.
    There is something rather magical about pan-frying pancakes and crêpes in salted butter. You should try!
    Author: Fanny Zanotti
    Prep Time10 minutes
    Cook Time10 minutes
    Makes 2 as a main breakfast

    Ingredients

    For the batter

    • 4 eggs separated
    • 30 g caster sugar
    • 1/2 tsp flaky sea salt
    • 1 tsp baking powder
    • 100 g plain flour
    • 120 mL whole milk

    To pan-fry

    • 50 g salted butter

    To serve

    • berries
    • icing sugar
    • fromage blanc or cottage cheese

    Instructions

    • Whisk the egg whites with a pinch of salt until they hold firm peaks.
    • In a large bowl, whisk together the egg yolks, caster sugar, and salt. Add in the milk. Then the flour and baking powder, whisking just until just smooth.
    • Gently fold the whipped egg whites into the egg yolk mixture.
    • Heat a large frying pan over medium heat. Add the butter and pour batter into pan, spreading it into a large pancake.
    • Cook for approxiamtely 3 minutes, checking underneath occasionally to make sure it doesn’t burn, until it’s a golden brown; reduce the heat if the pancake is browning too quickly.
    • Using a wooden spatula, divide the pancake into 4 and flip each fourth over. Continue cooking until golden underneath on the second side, around 3 minutes.
    • Now, add more butter to the pan, and tear the pancake into smaller pieces. the inside of the pancake will still be runny at this point. Cook, adding more butter if needed, until just cooked through.
    • Serve with a dusting of icing sugar and berries. I'm partial to cottage cheese, but also love a dollop of fromage blanc.

  • Best buttermilk pancakes

    Best buttermilk pancakes

    There is the snow that fell all day long, winds shaking the pines behind our living room windows. There are the tea lights on every shelf. There is the glazed Christmas ham we have been slicing from the fridge before lunch and after dinner. And as with every Christmas day morning breakfast, there was buttermilk pancakes with maple syrup and raisins plump with rum for those who have this kind of fondness.

    This buttermilk pancake recipe is one I’ve started making last year and is very much not a Christmas exclusive. Adapted from Marion Cunningham’s The Breakfast Book, it does make the best pancakes we’ve ever had. And really, I don’t know why I still haven’t written about these. Or bought the book. So here I am, crossing things off my to-do list, on Christmas evening. First the recipe, along with a quickly-taken over-the-stove picture that does not do these justice. And then a late present to myself, because those who love all things rum-and-raisins also happen to love anything by Marion Cunningham.

    I hope you had a lovely Christmas! Here is to snow and all-day breakfast. Surely nothing goes better with that than a day spent in pyjamas.

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    Best buttermilk pancakes

    Adapted from Marion Cunningham.
    There it is. The last pancake recipe you’ll ever need. And really, I’m not one to make such statements lightly. But after a year of weekend breakfasts, I’ve concluded that this recipe is indeed our favourite. It makes pancakes of the thick fluffy kind.
    We love to eat them plain or with eggs and bacon. Or even with a tablespoon of boozy raisins, which I like to keep in my fridge. Raisins are soaked in a light sugar syrup and a dash of dark rum.
    Sometimes I will add wild blueberries to the batter or even a handfull of corn kernels and a generous scoop of grated cheese.
    For an extra Christmas feel, I’ve sometimes had a teaspoon of my saffron syrup in the batter and then coated the still warm pancakes in granulated sugar for make-believe krabbelurer, something that I must tell you about some day in the near future.

    Notes

    ON BUTTERMILK
    If like us you can’t find buttermilk at the supermarket, I recommend to use the following:
    – in France, kéfir or lait ribot
    – in Sweden, filmjölk sometimes diluted with a touch of milk if I’m not feeling lazy
    Author: Fanny Zanotti
    Prep Time10 minutes
    Cook Time20 minutes
    Makes 12 pancakes

    Ingredients

    • 200 g buttermilk (read note above)
    • 1 egg
    • 50 g butter melted
    • 90 g plain flour
    • 1 tsp baking soda
    • 1/2 tsp salt

    Instructions

    • Place the buttermilk, egg and melted butter in a bowl and whisk until smooth. Mix the flour, salt, and baking soda together in a separate bowl, then stir into the buttermilk mixture until just mixed.
    • Heat a frying pan over medium to high heat. Grease lightly with butter and spoon the batter into small pancakes. Cook until bubbles start to appear, flip and cook for a further minute or so.
    • Serve immediately with the topping of your choice.
  • Sunday morning plättar

    Sunday morning plättar

    Last night, we had rökta räkor [smoked prawns] for dinner, with plenty of aioli and sourdough bread, and a bottle of pinot grigio whe’d kept on our veranda to chill. By the time we’d fallen asleep, the clocks had been set backwards and a thin layer of fresh snow had covered the roofs we see through our bedroom windows.
    Coffee, fleece blanket, and Sunday morning plättar [Swedish pancakes].

    Swedish plättar
    Adapted from Kungsörnen’s recipe.

    In Sweden, pancakes can have many forms. There are the larger ones, not unlike crêpes, although somewhat thicker: plättar. There are the small ones, cooked in a special pan: småplättar. And there are the ones cooked in the oven: pannkaka or perhaps more likely, ugnspannkaka.

    These names are, however, subject of a debate; one that has been dividing the country. Yes, what I’ve just told you is only valid in Skellefteå (where we live, and where K. grew up) and above. South of us, even as close as Umeå, which stands just a short 135km drive away, what I’ve come to know as plättar is called pannkakor. And plättar really means the small ones. Rather confusing, no?

    In an insightful episode of Språket, the terminology is examined and the comments make for an even more interesting read (in Swedish).
    One reader states that, to her, plättar are the pancakes that one cooks in a cast-iron pan, eventually, with small holes for små runda plättar [small round plättar]. Tunnpannkakor [literally, thin pancakes] are cooked on the stove in a frying pan, and can be made with the same batter as plättar. Ugnspannkaka is baked in a roasting tin and the batter is thicker than the one made for plättar or tunnpannkakor. She then follows by saying that in any case, plättar cannot be cooked in a frying pan, tunnpannkakor shouldn’t be made in a cast-iron pan, and of course, ugnspannkaka can only be baked in the oven.

    So really, I have no idea which recipe I’m sharing with you today other than it’s one that we love to make – on Sunday mornings or as a quick everyday dinner. One that we eat with jam, most likely the drottningsylt I made with the blueberries and raspberries we picked over the summer. One that I cook over the stove in a cast-iron pannkakspanna, something that changed everything I knew about crêpes.

    These plättar have crisp and salty edges, and are slightly thicker than the crêpes I grew up on.
    You could make them in a regular frying pan, in which case, I’d recommend warming up a generous amount of butter and oil in the pan until it just starts to smoke before cooking them. If you choose to make them in a cast-iron pan, don’t hesitate to use a little more batter than you normally would, perhaps 1 1/2 ladle instead of the usual 1.

    Swedish plättar

    Makes around 10-12 medium pancakes, approx. 22cm wide.

    2 eggs
    500 mL whole milk
    1/2 tsp sea salt
    180 g plain flour
    a generous tbsp     (around 20-30g) melted butter

    Combine the eggs, milk and salt. Pour half over the flour and mix until smooth. Add the remaining flour and the melted butter, whisking as you do so.
    You can use the batter straight away or store it in the fridge for up to 36 hours.

    When you are ready to cook the plättar, heat a lightly oiled cast-iron pan (read note above) over high heat.

    When the pan starts to smoke, pour a ladle of batter onto the pan, using approximately one-third of a cup for each plätt. Tilt the pan in a circular motion so that the batter coats the surface evenly.
    Cook the plätt for about a minute, until the edges start to brown. Loosen with a palette knife, flip over and cook the other side for a minute. Serve hot.

  • Scallion pancakes

    Scallion pancakes

    There is something about the way flour bonds with water. Something that possibly goes back to afternoons spent sat on the kitchen counter, watching my grand-mother making pâte brisée [shortcrust pastry], which I would – of course – nibble on.

    So the prospect of mixing flour and water to a dough, then sprinkled with a generous handful of chopped spring onions – and a pinch of Maldon sea salt – felt like music to me.

    I followed this recipe. For those of you who prefer to use kitchen scales – and may the gods of pastry bless you for that – I’ve written the quantities I’ve used below.


    The resulting pancakes are chewy and yet flaky. And the drawing above should have given you a hint, but they’re rather delicious when served with a drizzle – or more – of Sriracha sauce.

    Chinese scallion pancakes

    Makes eight pancakes, or four huge ones.

    Mix 300 g of plain flour with 240 g of boiling water using a wooden spoon. After it comes together, invert onto your kitchen counter and and knead until smooth. five minutes or so. Brush with a little vegetable oil, cover with clingfilm and allow to rest for half-an-hour, or overnight in the fridge.

    Cut the dough into four. Lightly oil your work surface and roll out one of the balls of dough into a thin rectangle at least 30x35cm.

    Lightly brush the top of the dough with vegetable or sesame oil. Finely chop a bunch of spring onions and sprinkle on top of the dough along with a pinch of Maldon sea salt.

    Starting from the long end, roll the dough up tightly, then cut in two. Coil each part into a bundle. Let the snails rest under clingfilm while you repeat this process with the rest of the dough.

    And finally roll out the snails into flat disks.

    Heat a tablespoon of vegetable oil into a frying pan and cook the pancake for approximately two minutes on each side, until golden brown.

    Cut into wedges and serve with a dipping sauce. And when I say dipping sauce, I really mean Sriracha.



    Now, what’s your favourite use for Sriracha? And have you tried making your own?