Year: 2010

  • Spinach and cheddar muffins

    Spinach and cheddar muffins

    There are things you can never ignore.
    At times, you wish you’d forgotten; crab hunting, kissing in the wind, eating peanut butter and jelly sandwiches, drinking beer by the bottle, killing flies, licking icy popsicles.

    Other times, you’re simply happy to remember; stepping into Pierre Hermé’s kitchen, signing my apprenticeship contract, taking a plane to a new life, biting into a perfectly chewy spinach and cheddar muffin.

    It was a Saturday or Sunday – the day does not matter – of an early autumn morning.
    I had just arrived to London.
    The air was crisp and the sky just turning blue after a night made of blankets and raindrops hitting the windows.

    Somehow, those pretty rustic muffins felt fitting. Right that second, I could smell vanilla frosting and feel the warmth from a just-opened oven door. And by all means, I could hear words from happy people.
    I remember how the first bite burnt my tongue. I remember the heat of pepper, the flavour of onion, spinach, cheddar and perhaps even Portobello mushrooms. And the crumb.

    And then, in between creating desserts and reading books, I forgot about this moment. You know, that everyday-kind of happiness. But as autumn sneaked on us – in a rather unexpected manner – the frosty mornings and dark evenings made our house feel like home.

    A home with soft lights, throws on the sofa, a whistling kettle, and muffins in the oven.

    Spinach and cheddar muffins
    Adapted from the Hummingbird Bakery.

    I could express my love for these muffins through an extended description of their qualities. The bold flavours, the perfect chewy crumb.
    But the fact that they are equally delicious for breakfast, lunch or dinner – preferably with a side of piping hot soup, makes them my favourite in the world.

    Spinach and cheddar muffins

    makes 12

    30g butter
    one small onion, finely sliced
    one fat clove of garlic
    one chili pepper, finely chopped
    350g plain flour
    2 1/2 tsp baking powder
    a good grind of black pepper
    200g cheddar, grated
    250g milk
    one egg
    130g spinach

    Preheat the oven to 170°C. In a pan, melt the butter over medium heat and cook the sliced onion until soft. At the end, grate the garlic and throw the chili into the pan and give a good stir to combine the flavours.
    In a bowl stir the flour, baking powder, pepper and cheddar. In another bowl, whisk the milk and egg together, then pour onto the flour mixture using a wooden spoon to fold.
    The batter will be quite thick, and I must admit I like to use my hands to incorporate the cooled onions and spinach.
    Divide into twelve muffin-cases and bake for 35 minutes. Remove the muffins from the tin and allow to cool on a rack.

  • Brownies fondants au cacao

    Brownies fondants au cacao

    [Cocoa fudge-brownies]

    Brownies fondants au cacao
    Adapted from Alice Medrich’s Bittersweet (thank you Deb).

    When I had my first bite of those insanely fudge-brownies, I felt sorry I hadn’t made them back when I first spotted them on Smitten Kitchen.
    At the time, I thought it would be nice to experiment but wasn’t sure the flavour would be au rendez-vous. But I was wrong. Not only the use of cocoa powder provides the brownies with an intense chocolate taste, but it also is the secret to their amazing texture (along with the high quantity of sugar that is).
    A new favourite at home!

    Edit 29.04.2020

    Over the past few weeks, I’ve received many requests to republish this recipe which I originally wrote about ten years ago. Ten years! I guess everyone could do with a slice of warm fudgy brownies at the moment.

    I haven’t made these in years! Instead, I’ve been baking kladdkaka , a Swedish cake, which is very similar both in terms of formula and texture; so much so that it may not count as different after all. It has become one of my go-tos, and I especially like to serve it with a vanilla anglaise and blueberry compote, which I can only urge you to try with these brownies!
    Or ice-cream that is, one can never go wrong à la mode!

    Brownies fondants au cacao

    Makes 16 squares.

    140 g butter
    280 g caster sugar
    80 g cocoa powder
    1/4 heaped tsp Maldon sea salt
    2 large eggs
    65 g plain flour

    Preheat the oven to 180°C/fan 160°C. Line a 25x25cm baking tin with baking paper.
    Combine the butter, sugar, cocoa, and salt in a bowl and cook over a simmering bain-marie, stirring from time to time until it forms a smooth mixture and feel hot to the touch (around 50-60°C).
    Set aside to cool down slightly, then mix in the eggs one at a time, using a whisk and stirring for a good minute after each one.
    Fold in the flour and spread the batter evenly into the prepared tin.

    Bake for 20 minutes, or until barely set. Allow to cool on a rack, then remove the brownies from the tin and slice into squares.

  • Brioches marbrées au thé matcha

    Brioches marbrées au thé matcha

    [Marbled matcha brioches]

    With no rational reason except that those brioches looked terribly good, I decided to venture into the realm of feuilletage; once again. Although, this time, my kitchen did not come with a rolling pin.
    I could have bought one on my recent visit to Pages. I almost did in fact. But eventually got out from the shop carrying many cercles [rings], a couple of knives, a sugar thermometer, and some ramekins.

    Quite providentially, my kitchen did come with more empty wine bottles than I’m willing to admit ; let’s be honest, we had five of them sitting on the counter.
    In my defense, I must tell you they have been there for weeks.

    Armed with the one bottle that seemed fit for the occasion – read perfectly cylindrical, label removed – I went straight for the recipe. And then realised the folding instructions were in Japanese.

    Now, why did my kitchen not come with full wine bottles instead? At that point, I could have used a glass.
    Instead, I started doodling, only to realise my panic attack was pointless. A simple tour double.

    Just like for puff pastry.

    I made the dough. Left it to rise. Made the matcha filling. Chilled it. Then, I started rolling and folding, and rolling and folding.
    Somehow, my dreamlike vision of the use of wine bottles as rolling pins vanished when the filling started leaking and the dough stuck to the bottle.

    My counter ended up green, so did my fingers.
    But that’s okay.
    First, because I like green. And second, because I see no problem whatsoever in licking green fingers when they taste like matcha.

    One lesson I have learnt from this experience: get yourself a decent rolling pin girl.

    If unlike me – and probably not unlike every person around the world – you own a rolling pin, then I urge you to make these brioches. With green tea, or if you’re feeling a little more subversive, with cocoa powder.

    Brioches marbrées au thé matcha
    Adapted from Les carnets parisiens.

    Don’t be scared with all the rolling pin action here. These brioches are very easy to make, and a treat to eat.
    Soft and fragrant.
    When it comes to yeasted dough, my favourite kneading technique – which I learnt at school – is quite close from this one. I wish I could make a video to show you, but for now, the explanations of Richard Bertinet will have to do.

    I don’t do it the exact same way, but the throwing and folding are similar. Trust me, this kneading technique is a keeper.

    If you’re going to use cocoa powder instead of matcha, go for 20g of powder. And then proceed as follow.

    Brioches marbrées au thé matcha

    Makes 12 small brioches

    For the brioche dough
    300g strong flour
    60g cater sugar
    one tsp dehydrated yeast
    125g whole milk
    one egg
    50g butter, diced and at room temperature

    For the matcha filling
    80g milk
    one egg white
    50g caster sugar
    20g flour
    20g matcha green tea
    10g butter

    Make the dough. In a large bowl, combine all the ingredients except for the butter and mix until it forms a rough dough.
    On an unfloured surface, start kneading the dough incorporating the butter as you do so until it forms a smooth ball; around 8 minutes.
    Place the dough back into the bowl – covered with a cloth – and leave in a warm place for 2 hours or until double in size.

    make the filling. Bring the milk to the boil. While it’s heating, mix the white and sugar in a bowl until combined. Mix in the flour and matcha green tea, and beat until homogeneous.
    When the milk is boiling, pour it over the matcha mixture, whisking as you do so. Transfer back into the pan, and cook on medium heat until thick. Mix in the butter.
    Spread it on a baking tray lined with cling film, around 20x15cm. Chill.

    Remove any air from the brioche dough by gently patting it down, then roll it into a 30x20cm rectangle. Place the matcha filling in the middle, then fold the dough over it, sealing the extremities together. Roll into a longer rectangle, then make a tour double. Repeat the folding one more time, then roll the dough back into a 30x20cm.

    Roll the dough onto itself to form a log. Trim the ends, then using a sharp knife, slice into 3cm-thick segments.

    Butter 12 5.5cm-wide rings, and place the slices into them, cut side up.

    Cover loosely with cling film, and allow to rise for 30 to 45 minutes.

    Preheat the oven to 180°C, and bake for 15 to 20 minutes or until golden brown.