Category: Pâtisserie

  • New Orleans beignets of my dreams

    New Orleans beignets of my dreams

    I might have never been to New Orleans, but every time I make these beignets, I almost inevitably feel like I’m right in the heart of the French Quarter – where the air hums with music, and the scent of chicory coffee drifts from the iron-lace balconies.

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    New Orleans beignets

    Beignets – French for doughnuts – are made much like brioche. Flour, milk, eggs, sugar, yeast, and salt. A smooth dough, easy to work with.
    I like to place my shaped ones, ready for their final proof, onto parchment-lined trays, lightly sprayed with oil. And just before frying, I cut the paper into squares, each holding a beignet or two, and lower them into the hot oil, paper and all.
    They puff and turn golden in moments, crisp at the edges, impossibly light within. Straight from the fryer, they’re tossed in icing sugar, which melts into a delicate, fudgy glaze. Best eaten warm, while the sugar still clings to your fingertips.
    Bon Mardi Gras!!

    Notes

    On timing
    These beignets are best eaten the same day – preferably hot, fresh from the oil, when they’re at their lightest and crispest. If you need to plan ahead, you have two options: you can proof the dough overnight in the fridge, then shape, do the final rise, and fry the next day, which deepens the flavour and fits neatly into a morning schedule. Or, for a longer make-ahead option, freeze the shaped dough on a silicone mat until firm, then transfer to freezer bags, pressing out as much air as possible. When ready to fry, place the frozen beignets onto lightly greased baking trays, cover with clingfilm, and proof until doubled – around 4 hours (to account for the thawing time as well) – before frying as usual.
    On coating
    The traditional way to coat beignets is to toss them into a brown paper bag filled with icing sugar and give it a good shake – quick, effortless, and wonderfully nostalgic. A large bowl works just as well, allowing for a more controlled dusting, but either way, the goal is the same: a generous flurry of sugar while they’re still warm.
    Author: Fanny Zanotti
    Prep Time1 hour
    Cook Time30 minutes
    Total Time3 hours
    Makes 24 beignets

    Ingredients

    • 250 g whole milk
    • 2 eggs
    • 510 g plain flour
    • 55 g caster sugar
    • 20 g fresh yeast or 7g instant yeast
    • 3 g fine sea salt
    • 90 g salted butter thinly sliced
    • neutral oil for frying
    • 400 g icing sugar to coat

    Instructions

    • In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook, add the milk, eggs, flour, sugar, yeast, salt, and butter. Knead on medium speed until smooth and elastic. The dough should pass the windowpane test.
    • Lightly spray a baking dish with cooking spray – my favourite is a 23×30cm Pyrex glass dish. Transfer the dough to the dish, turning it to coat the surface. Flatten it to fill the dish evenly, and cover with clingfilm.
    • Leave to rise in a warm place until nearly doubled in size, approximately 1 hour.
    • In the meantime, prepare 2 baking trays lined with parchment paper; spray lightly with cooking spray.
    • Lightly flour your work surface. Pat the dough into a slightly larger rectangle – around 2cm thick – and dust with a little flour.
    • Using a long knife, cut the dough into 24 pieces. Place them onto the prepared trays, loosely cover with clingfilm or clean kitchen towels, and leave to rise again for around 30 minutes.
    • While the beignets are rising, heat a generous amount of neutral oil in a deep-fryer or a heavy-bottomed pot to 180°C.
    • Put the icing sugar into a brown paper bag or a large bowl.
    • Fry 4–6 beignets at a time, turning with a metal spider or tongs, until deep golden brown, around 1-1½ minutes per side.
    • Transfer the hot beignets straight into the bag of icing sugar, close tightly, and shake well to coat. Place on a cooling rack over a tray. Repeat with the remaining beignets, adding more icing sugar as needed.
  • A brioche study, part II: the ingredients

    A brioche study, part II: the ingredients

    It is February 2025. And yes, it’s been nine – NINE – years since I last wrote about this brioche study. And yet, it is one that I still think about often, perhaps because I never completed it, but also because I get emails, almost daily, requesting the parts that never were.

    Naturally, I thought I’d start where we left off. For those of you who wonder, here is the first part, describing the approach of this study. And you’ll find the control recipe here, along with notes and pictures on oven spring, crust and crumb texture.

    For an overview, click here: BRIOCHE STUDY OVERVIEW.

    CONTENT TABLE

    – Part I: the approach

    – Part II: the ingredients – this is where you are.

    – Part III: the process – method, techniques and tips

    – Recipe: brioche #1, the control

    – Recipe: brioche #2, the almost Chavot-brioche

    – Recipe: brioche #3, the pain au lait

    – Recipe: brioches #4 and #5

    – Part IV: impact of the egg-to-milk ratio in rich doughs

    – Ressources: Brioche in literature

    Explore the feature: A brioche study and follow our discoveries on instagram: #BRIOCHESTUDY.

    Today, we’ll go through the ingredients, starting with eggs and milk and working our way down. The one question we’ll try to answer is:

    How does each ingredient affect the rheological properties of brioche dough?

    Rheology is the science of of the deformation and flow of matter under applied forces. It is widely used in the scientific community to deepen the understanding of how dough will behave during the bread-making process.

    Dough has many rheological properties that can be studied using different methods, but we’re mostly going to focus on elasticity, extensibility, and strength. Other notable properties include resistance to deformation and viscosity.

    1. Elasticity, the ability of dough to stretch and return to its original shape after being deformed or stretched.
    2. Extensibility, the ability of dough to stretch without breaking. It is an essential property for shaping and forming the dough.
    3. Strength is a function of both elasticity and extensibility. The more extensible and elastic a dough is, the stronger it is considered to be.

    THE INGREDIENTS

    Eggs

    The eggs I use: Organic, weighing 50g each.

    Eggs contain a variety of molecules that can affect the rheological properties of a dough:

    – Proteins: egg whites and yolks contain different types of proteins, including ovalbumin, ovotransferrin, and ovomucin. These proteins can interact with gluten proteins in the dough, weakening the gluten network, leading to increased extensibility and decreased elasticity.

    What does it mean for a finished baked product to have higher extensibility and lower elasticity?

    Higher extensibility: a dough with higher extensibility is easier to stretch and shape. This is beneficial for certain types of bread, where a more extended shaping process is desired – for example baguettes, croissants, pizza…

    Lower elasticity: a dough with lower elasticity means that the finished product may have a softer , fluffier texture. The crumb structure might be more open and airy because the dough doesn’t resist rising as much during fermentation and baking.
    It can also mean that if not baked in a tin, the dough may spread more during baking rather than holding a tight, structured shape.

    FOLLOW-UP QUESTION

    Why is a dough that has just been mixed harder to shape than one that has rested?

    A dough that has been recently mixed is often difficult to shape because the gluten strands are still tight; during the resting period, the flour absorbs more liquid and the gluten strands relax, making the dough more pliable and easier to shape. The resting period also allows enzymes in the flour to break down starches into simple sugars, which can be fermented by the yeast and improve the flavor of the dough.

    At the same time, the egg proteins – especially albumin, the egg white proteins – provide additional strength and stability to the brioche´s crumb structure as they coagulate when the temperature reaches 80°C. In fact as the egg white protein set, they form a solid mass which gives additional structure to the bread, contributing to its overall volume.

    It is also worth noting that the egg proteins also have a role in the organoleptic qualities of brioche. They do indeed participate in the Maillard reaction, also called non-enzymatic browning that occurs when proteins and sugars react under heat. This reaction contributes to the crust colour and the flavour of the brioche.

    Organoleptic qualities

    Organoleptic qualities refer to the aspects of a substance, that create an individual experience via the senses. This includes taste, colour, odour, and feel. These qualities are often used in the evaluation of food products, but also in other fields.

    – Lipids: egg yolks are high in fat, which has a tenderising effect on the dough by interfering with its gluten development. By coating the gluten proteins and preventing them from forming a strong network, lipids make a dough less elastic and more extensible, leading to a more tender and delicate crumb in the final product.

    The lipids in egg yolks also provides a richness of flavour.

    – Emulsifiers: egg yolks contain natural emulsifiers, most notably lecithin, which helps stabilise the emulsion of fat and water in the dough. This contributes to a smoother, more uniform texture in the finished product.

    Milk

    The milk I use: 3% fat.

    Whole milk is a complex liquid that contains several components, each of which can influence the rheological and organoleptic properties of dough in different ways:

    – Water: the water in milk increases dough hydration, a fundamental point for both gluten development and starch gelatinization.

    – Proteins: milk proteins, particularly caseins and whey proteins, interact with the gluten network. They can lead to increased elasticity. The amino acids from these proteins also participate in Maillard reactions during baking, along with the milk sugars.

    What does an increased elasticity mean for the finished baked product?

    Increased elasticity in a dough can lead to:
    – a denser crumb: as the dough resists rising during fermentation and baking, the brioche will have smaller, more evenly distributed air pockets.
    – a structured shape: the dough is more likely to hold its shape during baking, even if not baked in a tin. This is because a dough with increased elasticity resists deformation and tends to spring back to its original shape.
    – a chewier texture: on a molecular level, highly elastic doughs often mean a more tighly-wound gluten matrix, which makes for a firmer, chewier texture.

    FLour

    The flour I use: Swedish plain flour, averaging at 10% protein content.

    Flour is the primary structural component of brioche dough. Although you could possibly make brioche from virtually any flour containing gluten-forming proteins, we will stick to plain wheat flour today.

    FOLLOW-UP QUESTION

    How is the best way to incorporate whole grain flours in brioche? And how far can you push the substitution?

    Whole grain flours are ground from whole, unprocessed wheat kernels, grains, or seeds. Unlike refined flours, such as plain flour, whole grain flours include the germ and bran, which are more absorbent (the bran is rich in pentosans, a family of polysaccharides that can absorb up to 15 times their weight). In practice, this means that the total dough hydration needs to be increased to allow for gluten development.

    In her fantastic newsletter, Nicola Lamb, writes that one can substitute around 30% of the total flour by weight. She also mentions a wonderful technique, which I’ve also been partial to, which consists in separating the bran, and soaking or cooking a porridge before re-incorporating it in the dough. This way, you get the wonderful nutty flavours of whole grain flour without it being detrimental to gluten development.

    Read more here: https://kitchenprojects.substack.com/p/kitchen-project-38-tart-tropezienne

    TO DO: test different brioche doughs made using whole grain flours.

    – Proteins: the most important proteins in flour – both for their function but also by their occurrence – are glutenin and gliadin. These two proteins are the building blocks of gluten – when water or a liquid containing water, like milk or eggs, is added to these proteins, they link together, forming gluten.

    Glutenin gives the dough extensibility, while gliadin contributes to its elasticity.

    The protein content in flour varies greatly depending on the type of flour. The one I used: kärnvetemjöl, has a protein percentage of 10% – the standard for Swedish plain flour, slightly lower that English or American all-purpose.

    Although, the protein content in flour is crucial, it can also be misleading – some flours can be rich in proteins but relatively poor in glutenin and gliadin. However, on paper, higher protein flours can absorb more water and form a stronger gluten network, resulting in a dough with greater elasticity and strength. This means the dough can stretch more without tearing, allowing it to trap the gases produced during fermentation and rise effectively.

    FOLLOW-UP QUESTION

    How does the protein content of flour affect the rheological and organoleptic properties of brioche – both dough and finished product?

    In order to answer this question concretely, we’ll need to conduct a new mixture-design experiment, with the protein content of flour as a variable.

    TO DO: test different brioche doughs made using flours with varying protein content.

    – Starch: forms around 70-75% of flour. It absorbs water and swells during baking. This process is called gelatinization. As gas bubbles in the dough expand and eventually burst to form a porous structure, the starch gel and coagulated gluten matrix surrounding these bubbles increase in viscosity, forming a firm structure, essential for setting crumb structure and texture.

    Sugar

    The sugar I use: plain caster sugar.

    Caster sugar is made of sucrose, a disaccharide that affect both the rheological and organoleptic properties of brioche.

    Sugar significantly influences the taste and colour of the finished product. It enhances the sweetness, and contributes to a golden-brown crust through the Maillard reaction that occurs during baking.

    Sugar also affects the crumb texture. In fact, the hygroscopic nature of sugar allows it to absorb moisture and retain it over time, resulting in a softer loaf.

    hygro·scop·ic
    adjective
    (of a substance) tending to absorb moisture from the air.

    Of course, sugar acts as food for the yeast in the fermentation process.

    FOLLOW-UP QUESTION

    How do different proportions of caster sugar in the dough affect the finished product?

    I feel like it would be a fun experiment to conduct a mixture-design using sugar as a variable.

    TO DO:
    – test different brioche doughs made using varying levels of caster sugar in the formula
    – read the following reasearch paper: Timmermans, E.(2022). Sugar Levels Determine Fermentation Dynamics during Yeast Pastry Making and Its Impact on Dough and Product Characteristics. Foods, 11(10), 13881

    Salt

    The salt I use: both flaky sea salt and fine salt.
    It’s worth noting that different salts have different volumes, making it difficult to substitute flaky salt for fine salt if using spoon-measures. By weight, I’ve found that there is virtually no difference between these two salts, however, certain salts, like Himalayan salt are much less salty.

    Salt strengthens the gluten network in the dough, which improves its elasticity and extensibility. This results in a dough that is easier to handle and shape.
    It also regulates the rate of yeast fermentation by slowing it down.

    And perhaps most importantly, salt enhances the flavour of the brioche.

    Yeast

    The yeast I use: fresh yeast.

    Substituting fresh yeast

    For 10g of fresh yeast, use either 5g of active dry yeast (approximately one teaspoon: 5mL) or 3g of instant yeast (a heaped half teaspoon: 2.5mL). Note that the active dry yeast should be rehydrated in warm water or milk (around 40°C) for 5 to 10 minutes; however, both fresh yeast and instant yeast can be weighed out along with the flour, and used as is in the recipe.

    Note: If making a very wet dough with over 80% hydration, I tend to crumble my fresh yeast to make sure it gets fully incorporated; otherwise, I just leave it into large chunks and let the kneading do the job.

    Fresh yeast is made of Saccharomyces cerevisiae cells. In the right settings, yeast will convert sugar and starch into carbon dioxide and alcohol – this process is called fermentation.

    FOLLOW-UP QUESTION

    How does fermentation time affect the qualities of the finished product

    I would love to test one brioche dough and see how far we can push the fermentation.

    TO DO:
    – make a dough and test different fermentation times under constant settings like temperature and humidity

    FOLLOW-UP QUESTIONS AND NOTES

    1. Tangzhong method

    How does adding a tangzhong (a cooked flour-water paste) alter the hydration and softness of brioche?

    – Experiment: Test a brioche with and without tangzhong and compare moisture retention over time.
    – Suggested reading:The Food Lab by J. Kenji López-Alt (discusses hydration techniques in bread baking).

    2. Pre-ferments

    How does using a pre-ferment (such as a poolish or sponge) change the flavor complexity and structure of brioche?

    – Experiment: Make three brioches: one with direct yeast addition, one with poolish, and one with a stiff biga.

    3. Impact of hydration on brioche crumb

    How does altering the hydration level affect the crumb structure and softness? How much can hydration be increased while maintaining dough integrity?

    4. Effects of the cold fermentation

    How does a long cold proof (12-48 hours) change the gluten structure and overall rise compared to a same-day bake? Is the ideal proofing time different for dough with pre-ferments?

    5. Butter incorporation methods

    Should butter be added in one stage, or would gradual emulsification affect texture positively?

    Experiment: Compare direct incorporation vs. gradual mixing at different butter %.

    6. Dough temperature before baking

    What is the optimal final dough temperature before baking?

  • Three-day strawberry jam, à la Christine Ferber

    Three-day strawberry jam, à la Christine Ferber

    I first made this recipe a few weeks before my mom came to visit from the south of France last autumn. She loves her morning toast – always a baguette, always unsalted butter, thickly spread. I can’t quite agree – I want salted butter, the kind that pushes back against the sweetness of the jam.

    Most times, I make my usual recipe, the one I’ve relied on since 2009, back when I first worked with Andrew Gravett. But this time, I felt like trying something different. Christine Ferber’s method – slow and deliberate. Pierre Hermé has always sworn by her jams, and he’s never wrong.

     

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    Three-day strawberry jam

    Adapted from Christine Ferber's Mes confitures: jams and jellies.
    There’s a quiet kind of magic in slow preserves – the way sugar and time work together to turn fruit into something more than itself. This one starts with strawberries, small and fragrant, macerated overnight until they glisten. The process takes three days, like most Christine Ferber's jams and preserves – an institution in itself.

    Notes

    A note on using frozen strawberries:
    I always – always – freeze strawberries in the summer. I wash and hull them first, then freeze them on a tray before packing them into freezer bags. They work exceptionally well in smoothies, compotes, and of course, jams.
    I use them straight from the freezer – no need to defrost – keeping them whole. The sugar and lemon juice draw out their juices as they macerate, turning them into something almost candied. The result is a jam that’s less spreadable, with whole strawberries suspended in a thick, glossy syrup.
    Author: Fanny Zanotti
    Prep Time10 minutes
    Cook Time45 minutes
    Total Time3 days 55 minutes

    Ingredients

    • 1 kg hulled and quartered strawberries
    • 850 g caster sugar
    • Juice of one small lemon

    Instructions

    Day 1

    • Place the strawberries into a large non-reactive bowl. Add the caster sugar and lemon juice, stir, and cover with clingfilm. Leave to macerate overnight in the fridge.

    Day 2

    • By morning, the strawberries will have given up their juices. Tip everything into a pot and bring it to a gentle simmer. Pour it all back into the bowl, cover, and return to the fridge for another night.

    Day 3

    • Strain the strawberries, letting the syrup run through a fine sieve. Bring the syrup to a boil, skimming off any foam, and let it cook until it reaches 105°C.
    • Add the strawberries back in and bring everything to a rolling boil.
    • Skim again, stir gently, and let it cook for 5 more minutes. The syrup should be thick enough to coat a spoon, and the strawberries should shine – translucent and almost candied.
    • Spoon into warm jars, seal, and let cool. Then, find a reason to open one – some good bread, a spoonful over yogurt, or just because.

  • New York City’s Levain-style chocolate chip cookies

    New York City’s Levain-style chocolate chip cookies

    I’m not quite sure how I escaped it, but I only came across New York City’s Levain Bakery cookies a few months ago, despite their legendary status.

    After hours of research – comparing recipes, watching a 2008 video where the bakery’s founders shape the dough together . and a few tests in my own kitchen, I finally have a go-to recipe. Not quite the same as a flight to New York, but close enough.

    Six-ounce cookies with a deep golden crust and a fudgy crumb. I baked a few straight away, then tucked the rest into the freezer for later – because knowing they’re there, waiting, is a pleasure in itself.

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    New York City’s Levain-style chocolate chip cookies

    Adapted from Hijabs and Aprons.
    Big, craggy, gooey-in-the-middle cookies inspired by the ones from New York's Levain bakery. Perfect with a glass of cold milk or an afternoon coffee.
    I find that these are even better on the day after I bake them. 
    I usually make a couple of big ones – weighing 160-170g – then roll the rest in smaller balls – approximately 60-70g each – and freeze for later use. 

    Notes

    On baking smaller cookies
    For smaller cookies, divide dough into 60-70g portions and bake for 10-12 minutes.
    On freezing cookie dough balls
    To freeze dough balls, place them on a tray lined with baking paper and freeze until solid. Then, transfer them to a freezer bag. To remove excess air without a vacuum sealer, insert a straw into the bag’s opening, seal the bag around the straw, and suck out the air. Quickly seal the bag upon removing the straw.
    When ready to bake, place the frozen dough balls directly on a baking sheet and bake, adding a couple of extra minutes to the usual baking time.
    On vanilla sugar
    Vanilla sugar is a staple in many French and Swedish homes. However, a teaspoonful of vanilla extract will do the trick if you don’t have any on hand.
    If you wish, you can even make your own vanilla sugar. I always collect used vanilla pods, wash them if needed, and leave them to dry in a pot in my skafferi [pantry] until crisp. Then, I mix 3-4 dried pods with 200-300g of caster sugar, grind them to a powder, and store it in an airtight container.
    Author: Fanny Zanotti
    Prep Time30 minutes
    Cook Time15 minutes
    Total Time2 hours 45 minutes
    Makes 8 large cookies

    Ingredients

    • 115 g salted butter at room temperature
    • 200 g light muscovado sugar
    • 50 g golden caster sugar
    • 1 tsp vanilla sugar
    • 1 tsp flaky sea salt
    • 2 eggs
    • 300 g plain flour
    • 1½ tsp baking powder
    • 1 tsp baking soda
    • 250 g walnuts roughly chopped
    • 300 g dark chocolate chips I used Callebaut’s 56.9%

    Instructions

    • Preheat the oven to 190°C / fan 170°C. Line one or two baking sheets with baking paper.
    • In a large mixing bowl, beat the butter, sugars, and salt until creamy, about 3 minutes.
    • Add the eggs, one at a time, mixing well after each addition.
    • In a separate bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, and baking soda. Add to the wet ingredients and mix until just combined. Fold in the walnuts and chocolate chips.
    • Divide the dough into 8 rough balls, about 160-170g each. Shape them loosely into balls.
    • Place on the lined baking sheet, spacing them apart.
    • Bake for 14-16 minutes, until the tops are golden brown with lighter patches. Let the cookies set on the hot tray for at least 10 minutes before moving them – this allows the centers to firm up.
    • Allow to cool down completely, and store into an airtight container.

  • Buttermilk biscuits

    Buttermilk biscuits

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    Buttermilk biscuits

    Adapted from Sally’s Baking Recipes.
    This recipe is a staple in our home for late week-end breakfasts and quick school-night dinners. I love to serve them with bacon and fried eggs, and loads of freshly-sliced vegetables.
    They also make for a perfect afternoon fika, with whipped cream, jam, and fresh berries.
    As with every biscuit recipe, it is fundamental not to overmix the dough. I usually mix in the butter until rather large chunks are left, then add the buttermilk and mix until JUST combined.
    This produces very soft and flaky biscuits, exactly as they should be.
    Author: Fanny Zanotti
    Prep Time30 minutes
    Cook Time20 minutes
    Total Time50 minutes

    Ingredients

    • 310 g plain flour
    • 2 tbsp baking powder
    • 1 tbsp caster sugar
    • 1 tsp flaky sea salt
    • 120 g salted butter very cold and cubed
    • 240 ml cold buttermilk
    • whipping cream to brush

    Instructions

    • Preheat the oven to 220°C / fan 200°C. Line a baking tray with baking paper.
    • Make the dough. In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, sugar, and salt. Add the cubed butter and rub it into the flour with your fingertips until the mixture resembles rolled oats.
    • Make a well in the centre, and pour in the buttermilk. Gently fold everything together with a spoon or spatula until it just starts to come together. The dough should look rough and slightly crumbly in places.
    • Tip the dough onto a floured surface and bring it together using your hands. Pat into a 2cm thick rectangle and do 3 consecutive letter folds, rotating the dough 90 degrees between each turn.
    • Cut the biscuits. Roll or pat the dough to 2cm thick, then cut into a 3x6cm biscuits. Gather any scraps, reshape, and cut out more until all the dough is used.
    • Bake. Arrange the biscuits close together on the prepared tray, so they support each other as they rise. Brush the tops with whipping cream, and bake for 15–18 minutes or until golden-brown.
  • Chez Ma Tante’s pancakes

    Chez Ma Tante’s pancakes

    I’ve always been fascinated by fluffy American-style pancakes, perhaps because I didn’t grow up on them. In my childhood, pancakes, crêpes, really, were thin and delicate, the kind you’d fold into four with sugar and lemon or jam from my grand-mère’s wooden cabinet in the garage. The golden, towering stacks always felt like something from a storybook – indulgent, almost impossibly decadent.

    I already have two favourite recipes. One is a buttermilk classic by the great Marion Cunningham, who knew her way around the simplicity of breakfast like no one else. Her recipe reads like a letter from a friend, gently nudging you towards the joy of the everyday. The other is a five-minute wonder, a batter I can whisk together with my eyes closed on mornings when hunger wins over patience.

    And yet, when I stumbled upon Chez Ma Tante’s recipe one morning, I couldn’t resist. It felt like an invitation to try something new. The batter is looser than both of my regular recipes, and the results are ever so wonderful: a light and airy crumb with edges that cook to crisp, caramelised perfection.

    The original recipe calls for a full cup of clarified butter for cooking, but I couldn’t quite commit. A couple of tablespoons did the trick, yielding pancakes that were delicate yet indulgent. I had mine plain, marvelling at the texture and buttery caramelisation, but I can only imagine how they’d taste with a drizzle of maple syrup and a pat of butter melting into every crevice.

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    Chez Ma Tante’s pancakes

    Adapted from the New York Times.
    This is a recipe that doesn’t ask much but rewards you with pancakes that feel a little extraordinary. Perhaps it won’t replace my tried-and-true favourites, but it’s found its place – for mornings when I want pancakes that are both simple and a little special.
    The method is straightforward but with its own charm: sugar, salt, and a surprising 2 ½ tablespoons of baking powder whisked directly into an egg and yolk, before alternating in the milk and flour, finishing with melted butter.
    Serve them plain or with maple syrup and a pat of butter, and you’ll understand why this recipe deserves a spot in your morning repertoire.

    Notes

    On butter and cooking the pancakes:
    Chef Jake Leiber cooks his pancakes in a whole cup of clarified butter, but I prefer a simpler approach. I slice a generous piece of salted butter and stick it to the tines of a fork, using it to butter my cast-iron pan as I go. The butter browns gently, leaving the edges dark, crisp, and delightfully salty.
    On cast-iron:
    When it comes to pancakes, I always reach for my cast iron pan. Preheated over medium-high heat for 5-8 minutes to ensure an even surface, then lowered to medium-low for cooking, it produces pancakes with a light and airy crumb and caramelised edges that crackle under the fork.
    Author: Fanny Zanotti
    Prep Time15 minutes
    Cook Time20 minutes
    Makes 6 large pancakes

    Ingredients

    • 1 egg
    • 1 egg yolk
    • 2 ½ tablespoons 35 g baking powder
    • 2 tablespoons 25 g caster sugar
    • 1 teaspoon 5 g flaky sea salt
    • 300 ml whole milk
    • 130 g plain flour
    • 30 g salted butter melted
    • 60 g cold salted butter for cooking

    Instructions

    • Pre-heat your cast-iron pan on medium-high heat for at least 5 minutes, then reduce to medium-low.
    • In a large bowl, whisk together the egg, sugar, salt, and baking powder.
    • Gradually add the the milk and flour in alternating turns, whisking gently until a lumpy batter forms – do not overmix the batter. Finally, whisk in the 30g of melted butter.
    • Stick the cold butter to the tines of a fork and use it to butter you pan – it should start foaming and sizzling. Pour about 100 ml of batter for each pancake, letting it spread naturally.
    • Cook for about 1 1/2-2 minutes, or until golden brown with crisp edges, then flip and cook for another 1 minute or so on the other side.
    • Repeat with the remaining batter, adding more butter to the pan as needed. Serve warm with extra butter and maple syrup.

  • Saffranskladdkaka

    Saffranskladdkaka

    [Swedish saffron blondies]

    Snipp, snapp, snut – så var julen slut. Christmas has come and gone, and I never got around to sharing this recipe.

    We always celebrate the coming Advent early – often already in November. We call it novent. Candles in the windows, the first cups of glögg, something saffron-scented in the oven.

    Usually, it’s Birgitta’s saffranskaka – the one with plump raisins just so, and grated marzipan folded into the batter. But this year, we tried something new.

    A golden, delicate saffranskladdkaka, its edges just set while the centre stays soft. A new tradition for the years to come, perhaps?

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    Swedish saffron blondies

    A new saffron cake might just claim a spot among our Advent traditions. Made in one pot, it goes from cupboard to oven in just ten minutes.
    Saffranskladdkaka [literally, saffron sticky cake, a kind of saffron blondies]. Spectacular in thin wedges, served with a generous spoonful of vanilla custard and slices of clementine.
    Author: Fanny Zanotti
    Prep Time10 minutes
    Cook Time25 minutes
    Total Time4 hours 35 minutes
    Makes 16 thin slices

    Ingredients

    • 225 g salted butter
    • 1 g ground saffron threads
    • 300 g good quality white chocolate I like Callebaut or Valrhona
    • 270 g caster sugar
    • 3 tsp vanilla sugar
    • a pinch of salt
    • 4 eggs
    • 180 g plain flour

    Some favourite toppings

    • vanilla custard
    • clémentine slices
    • loosely whipped cream
    • fresh raspberries
    • icing sugar

    Instructions

    • Preheat the oven to 175°C/fan 160°C. Butter a 22cm tin and line its bottom with baking paper.
    • Melt the butter in a pan set over medium heat, and add the saffron, stirring well.
    • Off the heat, mix in the white chocolate, and stir using a silicon spatula until fully melted.
    • Now whisk in the sugars, salt, and the eggs, one at a time, mixing well after each addition.
    • Add the flour, and mix until just combined.
    • Pour the batter in the prepared tin, and bake for 30 minutes – the edges should be set, while the middle remains wobbly.
    • Let the cake cool completely in the fridge for at least 4 hours, preferably overnight, before serving.
    • Serve the cake in thin wedges, with a generous spoonful of custard and sliced clémentines, or perhaps with loosely-whipped cream and fresh raspberries. Even sometimes, only a light dusting of icing sugar is enough.

  • Red kuri squash pie

    Red kuri squash pie

    The first frost has come, bringing with it days that call for a slice of something warm and spiced. There’s already a pumpkin pie on the blog, but this one feels different – gentler, perhaps, with golden sugar adding its quiet warmth to the filling. The pâte brisée, crisp and buttery, is a joy to work with, and I’ve shared a few notes to make handling it as simple as it is satisfying.

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    Red kuri squash pie

    A silky, spiced potimarron [red kuri squash] filling nestled in a buttery, päte brisée crust – this classic pie is autumn comfort at its finest. Best served with a dollop of lightly whipped cream and a dusting of cinnamon.

    Notes

    On squash/pumpkin purée: 
    I almost always make my own squash/pumpkin purée. This time, I used potimarron [red kuri squash], but pumpkin or butternut works just as well in this recipe. To do so, I simply cut the squash in half using a large serrated knife, scoop out the seeds, and place it cut-side down on a tray lined with baking paper. Bake at 175°C / fan 150°C until soft – you can test the doneness using a skewer.
    Once cooled, scoop out the flesh and purée it in a food processor until smooth. For this recipe, I like to cook the purée on the stove for a few minutes to reduce any excess water. This step ensures a thick, velvety filling that holds together beautifully when baked and concentrates the pumpkin’s natural flavour. 
    Mixing the dough in a food processor:
    If you prefer to use a food processor for the pâte brisée, pulse the flour, sugar, and salt together first. Then add the cold butter, pulsing until it resembles coarse crumbs. Finally, add the cold water gradually, pulsing just until the dough comes together. Be careful not to overmix – you want the dough to stay tender and flaky.
    Blending the filling:
    I’ve found the best way to make the pumpkin filling is by using a hand blender. It creates a beautifully smooth texture, but be sure to blend gently and avoid incorporating too much air. 
    More on blind baking: For detailed tips on how to blind bake your tart crust, take a look at my post on the subject here. I find that it’s best to blind-bake the tart case until golden.
    Author: Fanny Zanotti
    Prep Time1 hour
    Cook Time1 hour 20 minutes
    Total Time6 hours 20 minutes
    Makes 12 slices

    Ingredients

    For the pate brisée

    • 185 g plain flour
    • 2 tsp golden caster sugar
    • 1/2 tsp flaky sea salt
    • 115 g cold butter cut into 1cm cubes
    • 2.5 tbsp ice-cold water

    For the pumpkin filling

    • 420 g squash or pumpkin purée homemade or store-bought (see note above)
    • 145 g golden caster sugar
    • 1/2 tsp flaky sea salt
    • 2 tsp cinnamon
    • 1 tsp ground ginger
    • 1/4 tsp ground cloves
    • a pinch of nutmeg
    • 330 g whipping cream
    • 3 eggs

    Instructions

    Make the dough:

    • In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, sugar, and salt. Rub the butter into the mixture with your fingertips until it resembles coarse rolled oats, then stir in the cold water using a rubber spatula.
    • Turn the mixture onto a clean work surface and gently bring it together – avoid kneading. Pat into a disc about 2cm thick, wrap in clingfilm, and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to 2 days.

    Rolling out the pastry:

    • Butter a 23-25cm tart tin and set aside.
    • Lightly flour your work surface, then unwrap the chilled dough and place it on the floured surface. Dust the top of the dough and roll it out to a 3-4 mm-thick circle, roughly 10cm larger than your tart tin. I find it easier to start flattening the dough by making indents in it with my rolling pin, see note above.
    • Carefully roll the dough around the rolling pin and unroll it over the tart tin. Gently press it into the corners and sides so it fits snugly. To trim the edges, roll the pin over the top of the tin for a clean, even finish.
    • Place the prepared tart crust in the freezer for 15–30 minutes while preheating the oven to 200°C/180°C fan.

    Blind baking the tart crust:

    • Line the pastry with baking paper and fill it with raw rice or dried beans. Bake for 15 minutes, then remove the paper and weights. Bake for another 5 minutes, or until the base is lightly golden.

    Making the pumpkin filling:

    • While the crust bakes, prepare the filling.
    • In a medium saucepan, combine the suqash/pumpkin purée, sugar, salt, and spices. Cook over medium heat, stirring regularly, until it starts to bubble. Continue for 5 minutes to reduce excess moisture.
    • Remove from the heat and transfer to a bowl. Whisk in the cream until smooth, then mix in the eggs with a hand blender, being careful not to incorporate air.
    • When the crust is ready, reduce the oven temperature to 170°C/150°C fan. Pour the filling into the tart shell and bake for 45–55 minutes, or until the centre is set but still has a slight jiggle. A skewer inserted in the middle should come out clean.
    • Allow to cool completely for at least 4 hours before slicing. Serve with lightly whipped cream. A dusting of cinnamon or nutmeg is a lovely addition too!

    Follow along as I add the finishing touch – a dollop of lightly whipped cream to slices of spiced pumpkin pie.

  • Clafoutis aux prunes

    Clafoutis aux prunes

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    Plum clafoutis

    One of my absolute favourite desserts – a twist on the classic cherry clafoutis – celebrates plums at their juiciest. The tartness of the plums balances the custard-like batter perfectly. It’s the kind of dish that feels both indulgent and homey – perfect when plums are in their prime and the weather calls for something warm from the oven.
    If you’ve been following for a while, you’ll know I’m partial to my grand-mère’s recipe. However, after a happy mishap – when I accidentally used half the flour one day – I found myself diving deep into clafoutis studies, exploring recipe percentages and running more than a few tests. The result is this version, my new staple, and a clafoutis that feels just right, as it should.

    Notes

    – Experiment with other fruits, like cherries or pears, but there’s something about plums that gives this clafoutis a lovely balance of sweetness and tartness.
    – Vanilla sugar is a staple in many French and Swedish homes. However, a teaspoonful of vanilla extract will do the trick if you don’t have any on hand. If you wish, you can even make your own vanilla sugar. I always collect used vanilla pods, wash them if needed, and leave them to dry in a pot in my skafferi [pantry] until crisp. Then, I mix 3-4 dried pods with 200-300g of caster sugar, grind them to a powder, and store it in an airtight container.
    Author: Fanny Zanotti
    Prep Time30 minutes
    Cook Time1 hour
    Total Time1 hour 30 minutes
    Makes 25 cm cake

    Ingredients

    • 150 g caster sugar
    • 1 tsp vanilla sugar
    • A pinch of salt
    • 100 g plain flour
    • 3 eggs 167g
    • 250 g whole milk
    • 250 g whipping cream 36%
    • 80 g melted salted butter
    • 400-500 g plums cut in half and stoned

    To prepare the baking dish

    • Butter
    • Cassonade or demerara sugar

    Instructions

    • Preheat the oven to 200°C / fan 180°C. Generously butter a baking dish (24-26cm in diameter) – then sprinkle liberally with cassonade/demerara sugar.
    • In a large bowl, whisk together the caster sugar, vanilla sugar, salt, and plain flour.
    • In a jug, weigh out the eggs, milk, and cream. Gradually pour the milk and cream mixture into the dry ingredients, whisking just enough to just bring it all together. Stir in the melted butter.
    • Arrange the plums in the prepared dish, cut-side down, and pour the batter over them gently.
    • Bake for 30 minutes, then reduce the oven temperature to 180°C / fan 160°C and bake for another 20-30 minutes, or until golden brown and set – with the center still slightly wobbly.
    • Let it cool for a moment before serving – warm or at room temperature.

  • Blåbärsmuffins

    Blåbärsmuffins

    [Blueberry muffins]

    Every summer, we head into the forest behind our house to pick wild blueberries. The days are long, with a light that lingers well into the night, casting a soft glow – not unlike a never-ending golden hour.

    As we fill our hinks with the tiny, inky-blue berries, the forest around us smells like pine and damp earth. If we wasn’t for the mosquitoes, you’d always find us there.

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    Blueberry muffins

    Adapted from Bel.
    These muffins are a favourite in our home. The batter comes together in minutes, quicker than it takes for my oven to warm up. When baked, their tops cracked just enough to reveal pockets of juicy berries.
    The crumb is light and soft, a wonderful contrast to the slight crisp of the demerara sugar crust.

    Notes

    On substituting buttermilk and sour cream:
    – buttermilk: I like to replace buttermilk with a mixture of filmjölk or runny narutal yoghurt and water For this recipe, I’m using 175g filmjölk and 50g cold water. 
    – sour cream: the closest we have in Sweden is gräddfil, in France, I would use crème fraiche or a rich Greek yoghurt instead. 
     
    If making jumbo muffins, you will have to adjust the baking time – use a skewer to test the doneness. 
     
    On saving batter for later use: 
    Sometimes, I will divide the batter without blueberries and save half in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 3 days. Then fold in half the amount of blueberries into the remaining batter and bake as usual. 
    The recipe can also easily be halved!
    Author: Fanny Zanotti
    Prep Time10 minutes
    Cook Time26 minutes
    Makes 24 muffins, or 12 jumbo-muffins

    Ingredients

    • 360 g plain flour
    • 2 tsp baking powder
    • 1 tsp baking soda
    • 225 g buttermilk read note above
    • 80 g sour cream read note above
    • 2 eggs
    • 300 g caster sugar
    • 2 tsp vanilla extract
    • a pinch of salt
    • 75 g neutral oil
    • 115 g melted butter
    • 300 g blueberries
    • demerara sugar to sprinkle

    Instructions

    • Pre-heat the oven to 225°C/fan 200°C. Butter two 12-cup muffin tins and line with paper liners.
    • In a bowl, combine the flour, baking powder, and baking soda using a whisk. And set aside.
    • In another bowl, whisk together the buttermilk, sour cream, eggs, caster sugar, vanilla extract, salt, and oil until smooth. Add the melted butter and whisk well.
    • Now add the flour mixture to the wet ingredients – making sure to reserve 2 tbsp flour mixture to later coat the blueberries.
    • Mix using a silicon spatula until barely combined and the batter still has flour spots.
    • Add the blueberries to the remaining flour and shake around to coat. Then fold delicately into the batter.
    • Spoon batter into the prepared muffin tins, filling right to the top. Sprinkle generously with demerara sugar.
    • Bake in the pre-heated oven for 10 minutes, then reduce the temperature to 175°C/fan 160°C and bake for a further 15-16 minutes, or until a skewer inserted into the centre of a muffin comes out clean.
    • Allow to cool down and store in an air-tight container for up to 3 days. Or freeze for up to a month.
  • Chewy snickerdoodles

    Chewy snickerdoodles

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    Chewy snickerdoodles

    Adapted from Sarah Kieffer's 100 COOKIES.
    It is no secret that I absolutely love cinnamon in my biscuits, and yet, I had never baked snickerdoodles before.
    Like most thing cookies, I settled for Sarah Kieffer's recipe, making a few adjustments according to what my cupboard had to offer. the result? Chewy-centrered snickerdoodles with a crisp edge and a fragrant coating of cinnamon.
    A new favourite!
    Author: Fanny Zanotti
    Prep Time15 minutes
    Cook Time12 minutes
    Makes 24 cookies

    Ingredients

    For the dough

    • 220 g salted butter at room temperature
    • 350 g caster sugar
    • 1/4 tsp flaky sea salt
    • 1 tsp vanilla extract or vanilla sugar
    • 1 egg
    • 1 egg yolk
    • 355 g plain flour
    • 1 tsp baking powder
    • 1/4 tsp baking soda

    To coat

    • 60 g golden caster sugar or demerara sugar
    • 1 tbsp ground cinnamon

    Instructions

    • Preheat the oven to 175°C/fan 160°C.
    • Cream the butter, sugar, salt and vanilla using a stand-mixer fitted with the paddle attachement – although a hand-mixer works almost just as well – for 2-3 minutes, until light and fluffy.
    • Add the egg and yolk, and mix util combined.
    • Add the flour, baking powder and soda, and mix again on low speed until the dough just starts to come together.
    • In a separate bowl, mix the sugar and cinnamon for the coating and set aside until needed.
    • Place the dough on top of your work surface, and roll into a log. Divide in 4. Roll each piece of dough into a longer log, then divide in 6.
    • Roll each piece of dough into a ball, then coat in cinnamon sugar.
    • Place onto a baking tray lined with baking paper – around 8-9 cookies per tray, and bake for 12-14 minutes until the tops begin to crackle. As soon as the cookies come out from the oven, re-shape them using an upside-down glass or a round cookie cutter.
    • Allow to cool down and store in an air-tight container for up to 3 days.