Year: 2024

  • Red kuri squash pie

    Red kuri squash pie

    The first frost has come, bringing with it days that call for a slice of something warm and spiced. There’s already a pumpkin pie on the blog, but this one feels different – gentler, perhaps, with golden sugar adding its quiet warmth to the filling. The pâte brisée, crisp and buttery, is a joy to work with, and I’ve shared a few notes to make handling it as simple as it is satisfying.

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    Red kuri squash pie

    A silky, spiced potimarron [red kuri squash] filling nestled in a buttery, päte brisée crust – this classic pie is autumn comfort at its finest. Best served with a dollop of lightly whipped cream and a dusting of cinnamon.

    Notes

    On squash/pumpkin purée: 
    I almost always make my own squash/pumpkin purée. This time, I used potimarron [red kuri squash], but pumpkin or butternut works just as well in this recipe. To do so, I simply cut the squash in half using a large serrated knife, scoop out the seeds, and place it cut-side down on a tray lined with baking paper. Bake at 175°C / fan 150°C until soft – you can test the doneness using a skewer.
    Once cooled, scoop out the flesh and purée it in a food processor until smooth. For this recipe, I like to cook the purée on the stove for a few minutes to reduce any excess water. This step ensures a thick, velvety filling that holds together beautifully when baked and concentrates the pumpkin’s natural flavour. 
    Mixing the dough in a food processor:
    If you prefer to use a food processor for the pâte brisée, pulse the flour, sugar, and salt together first. Then add the cold butter, pulsing until it resembles coarse crumbs. Finally, add the cold water gradually, pulsing just until the dough comes together. Be careful not to overmix – you want the dough to stay tender and flaky.
    Blending the filling:
    I’ve found the best way to make the pumpkin filling is by using a hand blender. It creates a beautifully smooth texture, but be sure to blend gently and avoid incorporating too much air. 
    More on blind baking: For detailed tips on how to blind bake your tart crust, take a look at my post on the subject here. I find that it’s best to blind-bake the tart case until golden.
    Author: Fanny Zanotti
    Prep Time1 hour
    Cook Time1 hour 20 minutes
    Total Time6 hours 20 minutes
    Makes 12 slices

    Ingredients

    For the pate brisée

    • 185 g plain flour
    • 2 tsp golden caster sugar
    • 1/2 tsp flaky sea salt
    • 115 g cold butter cut into 1cm cubes
    • 2.5 tbsp ice-cold water

    For the pumpkin filling

    • 420 g squash or pumpkin purée homemade or store-bought (see note above)
    • 145 g golden caster sugar
    • 1/2 tsp flaky sea salt
    • 2 tsp cinnamon
    • 1 tsp ground ginger
    • 1/4 tsp ground cloves
    • a pinch of nutmeg
    • 330 g whipping cream
    • 3 eggs

    Instructions

    Make the dough:

    • In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, sugar, and salt. Rub the butter into the mixture with your fingertips until it resembles coarse rolled oats, then stir in the cold water using a rubber spatula.
    • Turn the mixture onto a clean work surface and gently bring it together – avoid kneading. Pat into a disc about 2cm thick, wrap in clingfilm, and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to 2 days.

    Rolling out the pastry:

    • Butter a 23-25cm tart tin and set aside.
    • Lightly flour your work surface, then unwrap the chilled dough and place it on the floured surface. Dust the top of the dough and roll it out to a 3-4 mm-thick circle, roughly 10cm larger than your tart tin. I find it easier to start flattening the dough by making indents in it with my rolling pin, see note above.
    • Carefully roll the dough around the rolling pin and unroll it over the tart tin. Gently press it into the corners and sides so it fits snugly. To trim the edges, roll the pin over the top of the tin for a clean, even finish.
    • Place the prepared tart crust in the freezer for 15–30 minutes while preheating the oven to 200°C/180°C fan.

    Blind baking the tart crust:

    • Line the pastry with baking paper and fill it with raw rice or dried beans. Bake for 15 minutes, then remove the paper and weights. Bake for another 5 minutes, or until the base is lightly golden.

    Making the pumpkin filling:

    • While the crust bakes, prepare the filling.
    • In a medium saucepan, combine the suqash/pumpkin purée, sugar, salt, and spices. Cook over medium heat, stirring regularly, until it starts to bubble. Continue for 5 minutes to reduce excess moisture.
    • Remove from the heat and transfer to a bowl. Whisk in the cream until smooth, then mix in the eggs with a hand blender, being careful not to incorporate air.
    • When the crust is ready, reduce the oven temperature to 170°C/150°C fan. Pour the filling into the tart shell and bake for 45–55 minutes, or until the centre is set but still has a slight jiggle. A skewer inserted in the middle should come out clean.
    • Allow to cool completely for at least 4 hours before slicing. Serve with lightly whipped cream. A dusting of cinnamon or nutmeg is a lovely addition too!

    Follow along as I add the finishing touch – a dollop of lightly whipped cream to slices of spiced pumpkin pie.

  • Clafoutis aux prunes

    Clafoutis aux prunes

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    Plum clafoutis

    One of my absolute favourite desserts – a twist on the classic cherry clafoutis – celebrates plums at their juiciest. The tartness of the plums balances the custard-like batter perfectly. It’s the kind of dish that feels both indulgent and homey – perfect when plums are in their prime and the weather calls for something warm from the oven.
    If you’ve been following for a while, you’ll know I’m partial to my grand-mère’s recipe. However, after a happy mishap – when I accidentally used half the flour one day – I found myself diving deep into clafoutis studies, exploring recipe percentages and running more than a few tests. The result is this version, my new staple, and a clafoutis that feels just right, as it should.

    Notes

    – Experiment with other fruits, like cherries or pears, but there’s something about plums that gives this clafoutis a lovely balance of sweetness and tartness.
    – Vanilla sugar is a staple in many French and Swedish homes. However, a teaspoonful of vanilla extract will do the trick if you don’t have any on hand. If you wish, you can even make your own vanilla sugar. I always collect used vanilla pods, wash them if needed, and leave them to dry in a pot in my skafferi [pantry] until crisp. Then, I mix 3-4 dried pods with 200-300g of caster sugar, grind them to a powder, and store it in an airtight container.
    Author: Fanny Zanotti
    Prep Time30 minutes
    Cook Time1 hour
    Total Time1 hour 30 minutes
    Makes 25 cm cake

    Ingredients

    • 150 g caster sugar
    • 1 tsp vanilla sugar
    • A pinch of salt
    • 100 g plain flour
    • 3 eggs 167g
    • 250 g whole milk
    • 250 g whipping cream 36%
    • 80 g melted salted butter
    • 400-500 g plums cut in half and stoned

    To prepare the baking dish

    • Butter
    • Cassonade or demerara sugar

    Instructions

    • Preheat the oven to 200°C / fan 180°C. Generously butter a baking dish (24-26cm in diameter) – then sprinkle liberally with cassonade/demerara sugar.
    • In a large bowl, whisk together the caster sugar, vanilla sugar, salt, and plain flour.
    • In a jug, weigh out the eggs, milk, and cream. Gradually pour the milk and cream mixture into the dry ingredients, whisking just enough to just bring it all together. Stir in the melted butter.
    • Arrange the plums in the prepared dish, cut-side down, and pour the batter over them gently.
    • Bake for 30 minutes, then reduce the oven temperature to 180°C / fan 160°C and bake for another 20-30 minutes, or until golden brown and set – with the center still slightly wobbly.
    • Let it cool for a moment before serving – warm or at room temperature.

  • Blåbärsmuffins

    Blåbärsmuffins

    [Blueberry muffins]

    Every summer, we head into the forest behind our house to pick wild blueberries. The days are long, with a light that lingers well into the night, casting a soft glow – not unlike a never-ending golden hour.

    As we fill our hinks with the tiny, inky-blue berries, the forest around us smells like pine and damp earth. If we wasn’t for the mosquitoes, you’d always find us there.

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    Blueberry muffins

    Adapted from Bel.
    These muffins are a favourite in our home. The batter comes together in minutes, quicker than it takes for my oven to warm up. When baked, their tops cracked just enough to reveal pockets of juicy berries.
    The crumb is light and soft, a wonderful contrast to the slight crisp of the demerara sugar crust.

    Notes

    On substituting buttermilk and sour cream:
    – buttermilk: I like to replace buttermilk with a mixture of filmjölk or runny narutal yoghurt and water For this recipe, I’m using 175g filmjölk and 50g cold water. 
    – sour cream: the closest we have in Sweden is gräddfil, in France, I would use crème fraiche or a rich Greek yoghurt instead. 
     
    If making jumbo muffins, you will have to adjust the baking time – use a skewer to test the doneness. 
     
    On saving batter for later use: 
    Sometimes, I will divide the batter without blueberries and save half in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 3 days. Then fold in half the amount of blueberries into the remaining batter and bake as usual. 
    The recipe can also easily be halved!
    Author: Fanny Zanotti
    Prep Time10 minutes
    Cook Time26 minutes
    Makes 24 muffins, or 12 jumbo-muffins

    Ingredients

    • 360 g plain flour
    • 2 tsp baking powder
    • 1 tsp baking soda
    • 225 g buttermilk read note above
    • 80 g sour cream read note above
    • 2 eggs
    • 300 g caster sugar
    • 2 tsp vanilla extract
    • a pinch of salt
    • 75 g neutral oil
    • 115 g melted butter
    • 300 g blueberries
    • demerara sugar to sprinkle

    Instructions

    • Pre-heat the oven to 225°C/fan 200°C. Butter two 12-cup muffin tins and line with paper liners.
    • In a bowl, combine the flour, baking powder, and baking soda using a whisk. And set aside.
    • In another bowl, whisk together the buttermilk, sour cream, eggs, caster sugar, vanilla extract, salt, and oil until smooth. Add the melted butter and whisk well.
    • Now add the flour mixture to the wet ingredients – making sure to reserve 2 tbsp flour mixture to later coat the blueberries.
    • Mix using a silicon spatula until barely combined and the batter still has flour spots.
    • Add the blueberries to the remaining flour and shake around to coat. Then fold delicately into the batter.
    • Spoon batter into the prepared muffin tins, filling right to the top. Sprinkle generously with demerara sugar.
    • Bake in the pre-heated oven for 10 minutes, then reduce the temperature to 175°C/fan 160°C and bake for a further 15-16 minutes, or until a skewer inserted into the centre of a muffin comes out clean.
    • Allow to cool down and store in an air-tight container for up to 3 days. Or freeze for up to a month.
  • Chewy snickerdoodles

    Chewy snickerdoodles

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    Chewy snickerdoodles

    Adapted from Sarah Kieffer's 100 COOKIES.
    It is no secret that I absolutely love cinnamon in my biscuits, and yet, I had never baked snickerdoodles before.
    Like most thing cookies, I settled for Sarah Kieffer's recipe, making a few adjustments according to what my cupboard had to offer. the result? Chewy-centrered snickerdoodles with a crisp edge and a fragrant coating of cinnamon.
    A new favourite!
    Author: Fanny Zanotti
    Prep Time15 minutes
    Cook Time12 minutes
    Makes 24 cookies

    Ingredients

    For the dough

    • 220 g salted butter at room temperature
    • 350 g caster sugar
    • 1/4 tsp flaky sea salt
    • 1 tsp vanilla extract or vanilla sugar
    • 1 egg
    • 1 egg yolk
    • 355 g plain flour
    • 1 tsp baking powder
    • 1/4 tsp baking soda

    To coat

    • 60 g golden caster sugar or demerara sugar
    • 1 tbsp ground cinnamon

    Instructions

    • Preheat the oven to 175°C/fan 160°C.
    • Cream the butter, sugar, salt and vanilla using a stand-mixer fitted with the paddle attachement – although a hand-mixer works almost just as well – for 2-3 minutes, until light and fluffy.
    • Add the egg and yolk, and mix util combined.
    • Add the flour, baking powder and soda, and mix again on low speed until the dough just starts to come together.
    • In a separate bowl, mix the sugar and cinnamon for the coating and set aside until needed.
    • Place the dough on top of your work surface, and roll into a log. Divide in 4. Roll each piece of dough into a longer log, then divide in 6.
    • Roll each piece of dough into a ball, then coat in cinnamon sugar.
    • Place onto a baking tray lined with baking paper – around 8-9 cookies per tray, and bake for 12-14 minutes until the tops begin to crackle. As soon as the cookies come out from the oven, re-shape them using an upside-down glass or a round cookie cutter.
    • Allow to cool down and store in an air-tight container for up to 3 days.
  • Kaiserschmarrn

    Kaiserschmarrn

    [Austrian scrambled pancakes]

    In the embrace of late January, breakfasts are the essence of comfort. Through our kitchen windows, we see acres of treetops covered in snow. A tableau that stretches as far as the eyes can see.

    And every weekend morning is the same, almost like a celebration of foreverness. There is the sound of the coffee brewer, a subdued gurgle, akin to a whisper of some sort. There is the crispiness of the icy air through our bedroom window. And the sun that sets before its risen above the hill across the river.

    Our breakfast typically revolve around two cherished options: sunny-side-up eggs on golden toast, sometimes served with kimchi-pickled cabbage, and stacks of fluffy hotcakes draped with maple syrup and bacon – pan-fried until almost too crisp. On Sundays, a full English is practically a necessity.

    Yet, of late, our plates have welcomed the rekindled presence of an old favourite: Kaiserschmarrn – Austrian scrambled pancakes, something I used to make the first year after Sienna was born and nearly forgot about, not unlike a nostalgic symphony on our morning table.

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    Austrian scrambled pancakes

    Kaiserschmarrn [literally, Emperor's mess] is a quintessential Austrian dish that can be best described as a hybrid between a pancake and a fluffy omelette.
    My recipe, adapted from Deb Perelman, has become a true favourite for weekend breakfasts over the years.
    The preparation begins with a basic pancake batter made from eggs, flour, milk, and a touch of sugar. What sets Kaiserschmarrn apart is the technique – the batter is initially cooked as a large pancake before being torn into bite-sized pieces. These torn pieces are then further cooked until golden brown on the outside and delightfully soft and airy on the inside.
    I used to flip the pancake onto a plate, then shred separately, but lately, I've been doing it all in the pan using a wooden spatula, and it's much less messy, which is always a bonus.
    They are traditionally served with a dusting of icing sugar and compote, however I am partial to cottage cheese or fromage blanc, and berries.

    Notes

    On salted butter: After having lived in Sweden for the past nine years or so, I almost exclusively pan-fry and bake using salted butter. And really, I’m not ever going back, EVER. Although I must admit it makes writing recipes harder as the salt content in butter varies greatly across the globe. Here in Sweden it is usually 1.2%.
    There is something rather magical about pan-frying pancakes and crêpes in salted butter. You should try!
    Author: Fanny Zanotti
    Prep Time10 minutes
    Cook Time10 minutes
    Makes 2 as a main breakfast

    Ingredients

    For the batter

    • 4 eggs separated
    • 30 g caster sugar
    • 1/2 tsp flaky sea salt
    • 1 tsp baking powder
    • 100 g plain flour
    • 120 mL whole milk

    To pan-fry

    • 50 g salted butter

    To serve

    • berries
    • icing sugar
    • fromage blanc or cottage cheese

    Instructions

    • Whisk the egg whites with a pinch of salt until they hold firm peaks.
    • In a large bowl, whisk together the egg yolks, caster sugar, and salt. Add in the milk. Then the flour and baking powder, whisking just until just smooth.
    • Gently fold the whipped egg whites into the egg yolk mixture.
    • Heat a large frying pan over medium heat. Add the butter and pour batter into pan, spreading it into a large pancake.
    • Cook for approxiamtely 3 minutes, checking underneath occasionally to make sure it doesn’t burn, until it’s a golden brown; reduce the heat if the pancake is browning too quickly.
    • Using a wooden spatula, divide the pancake into 4 and flip each fourth over. Continue cooking until golden underneath on the second side, around 3 minutes.
    • Now, add more butter to the pan, and tear the pancake into smaller pieces. the inside of the pancake will still be runny at this point. Cook, adding more butter if needed, until just cooked through.
    • Serve with a dusting of icing sugar and berries. I'm partial to cottage cheese, but also love a dollop of fromage blanc.

  • A day in the baking cottage

    A day in the baking cottage

    Photos © Joann Pai / Bake Magazine

    There is nothing quite like winter in the north of Sweden – crisp air, snow-covered fields, and the northern lights flickering beyond the windows. In the depths of the season, I was honoured to welcome Bake from Scratch Editor-in-Chief Brian Hart Hoffman and photographer Joann Pai to the old baking cottage in Tjärn, just outside Skellefteå, for a day of baking – warm hands, golden light, and the scent of saffron and citrus filling the room.

    We started at Svedjan Ost, collecting buttermilk and butter, then stopped at ÓGIN Distillery, where Jón Óskar Arnason distils the flavours of the subarctic into bottles. Back in the cottage, fire crackling, we turned to winter’s brightest flavours: saffron, citrus, and cloudberries. By the time the light faded, our table was filled with golden brioches, rye soda bread, saffron cakes, and almond-orange biscuits.

    A day of simple joys, traditions and warmth. The full story is in the Jan/Feb 2024 issue of Bake from Scratch – a glimpse into my world of winter baking. You can purchase the issue here.

    Photos © Joann Pai / Bake Magazine
    Photos © Joann Pai / Bake Magazine