Category: Le marché & its produce

  • La rhubarbe

    La rhubarbe

    I remember the rhubarb my grand-père used to grow in the garden. It was thick and green; and would be turned into jar-after-jar of compote which my grand-mère always kept in that little cupboard in the garage. On top of my grand-père’s tools, always neatly organised.
    One day, I’ll show you that garage.

    We would eat the compote on top of yoghurt for breakfast. Or spoon it onto a tart case and cover it with a creamy custard before baking.

    Compote de rhubarbe

    Rhubarb compote is one of those staples you can never have enough of. Wash the stalks under cold water, then chop into 1cm pieces. Weight out the rhubarb in a large bowl and combine with 20% of caster sugar. So let’s say, for 1kg of rhubarb, add 200g caster sugar; and of course, the seeds and empty pod from a vanilla bean. Mix well, cover with cling film and leave to marinate overnight in the fridge.
    The next day or a few hours later (cheeky version), scrape the fruits into a large pan and cook over medium heat – stirring every now and then, more so often towards the end – until the rhubarb has broken down and the syrup has reduced.
    If you’re canning, transfer to sterilised jars, close the lids and turn upside down before steaming for 30 minutes. Otherwise, just transfer to a plastic container and refrigerate until cold. You’ll have to use it within 5 days.



    And then, I moved to London, where rhubarb is pink and only comes when the trees are snowing with blossoms. It’s my favourite time of the year really.
    And my favourite colours too.

    These days my favourite thing to do with rhubarb is to roast it in a vanilla syrup.

    Rhubarbe rôtie

    In a large pan, bring 300g of water and 300g of caster sugar to the boil, along with the seeds and pods from 3 vanilla beans.
    In the meantime, wash and cut 500g of rhubarb stalks into 3cm pieces and place them into a large roasting tray. Cover with the syrup and bake at 200°C for around 10-12 minutes. Allow to cool down to room temperature.


    I like to serve it on top of a cake. Perhaps with frosting, perhaps without.
    But in all measures, it should look messy and naughty. Because that’s what cakes are for.

    For the record – because I’m trying to learn Swedish, one food word at a time, and also because when we were there, I saw the biggest rhubarb bush I had ever seen before, in his dad’s garden, and also because it’s a good-mood word* – rhubarb in Swedish is:

    Rabarbrar
    Rabarber

    * Please tell me I’m not the only one who falls in love with some words. For the way they sound or look.

    What is your favourite way of using rhubarb? And any little stories we should all know about?

  • Les abricots

    Les abricots

    Yesterday, we found a basket on our fence. The third this week. It’s made of osier and hung by a metal hook.

    Inside, we could see apricots. And at times, cherries.

    Most of the fruits have been eaten already. Fresh, torn in halves, with their juices running on our fingers. Really, why mess with perfection?

    But we have still a few kilograms of apricots left. Golden plump jewels. I’ve made an upside-down apricot and camomile cake. It was all sorts of wonderful. A crumb loaded with camomile leaves. The juices of the apricots turning into compote with the heat.

    The recipe will be in the book of course, as most things that happen in my kitchen right now. Really I can’t wait to tell you more about all those words I write and all those cakes I bake. It should be all sorts of wonderful too!

    But in the meantime, I have a question or two. What are your favourite recipes with apricots?

    I have some gathered some notes already, in case you have more apricots that you can possibly eat (is there such thing?).

    apricot crème crûlée tart.
    baked apricots with limoncello, from the ever-gorgeous what katie ate.
    apricot and chocolate baby clafoutis.
    apricot tart with brown sugar and cinnamon pastry, from BBC goodfood.
    grilled apricots with honey and olive oil, on Taylor’s beautiful blog.
    apricot and matcha tiramisu, on – need I say more – my friend’s, Keiko, blog: nordljus which has been an absolute favourite for years.
    – and her roasted apricots with camomile too, a recipe I remember dreaming over six years ago now.
    rosemary and apricot tarte tatin.