Tag: bread

  • Brioches marbrées au thé matcha

    Brioches marbrées au thé matcha

    [Marbled matcha brioches]

    With no rational reason except that those brioches looked terribly good, I decided to venture into the realm of feuilletage; once again. Although, this time, my kitchen did not come with a rolling pin.
    I could have bought one on my recent visit to Pages. I almost did in fact. But eventually got out from the shop carrying many cercles [rings], a couple of knives, a sugar thermometer, and some ramekins.

    Quite providentially, my kitchen did come with more empty wine bottles than I’m willing to admit ; let’s be honest, we had five of them sitting on the counter.
    In my defense, I must tell you they have been there for weeks.

    Armed with the one bottle that seemed fit for the occasion – read perfectly cylindrical, label removed – I went straight for the recipe. And then realised the folding instructions were in Japanese.

    Now, why did my kitchen not come with full wine bottles instead? At that point, I could have used a glass.
    Instead, I started doodling, only to realise my panic attack was pointless. A simple tour double.

    Just like for puff pastry.

    I made the dough. Left it to rise. Made the matcha filling. Chilled it. Then, I started rolling and folding, and rolling and folding.
    Somehow, my dreamlike vision of the use of wine bottles as rolling pins vanished when the filling started leaking and the dough stuck to the bottle.

    My counter ended up green, so did my fingers.
    But that’s okay.
    First, because I like green. And second, because I see no problem whatsoever in licking green fingers when they taste like matcha.

    One lesson I have learnt from this experience: get yourself a decent rolling pin girl.

    If unlike me – and probably not unlike every person around the world – you own a rolling pin, then I urge you to make these brioches. With green tea, or if you’re feeling a little more subversive, with cocoa powder.

    Brioches marbrées au thé matcha
    Adapted from Les carnets parisiens.

    Don’t be scared with all the rolling pin action here. These brioches are very easy to make, and a treat to eat.
    Soft and fragrant.
    When it comes to yeasted dough, my favourite kneading technique – which I learnt at school – is quite close from this one. I wish I could make a video to show you, but for now, the explanations of Richard Bertinet will have to do.

    I don’t do it the exact same way, but the throwing and folding are similar. Trust me, this kneading technique is a keeper.

    If you’re going to use cocoa powder instead of matcha, go for 20g of powder. And then proceed as follow.

    Brioches marbrées au thé matcha

    Makes 12 small brioches

    For the brioche dough
    300g strong flour
    60g cater sugar
    one tsp dehydrated yeast
    125g whole milk
    one egg
    50g butter, diced and at room temperature

    For the matcha filling
    80g milk
    one egg white
    50g caster sugar
    20g flour
    20g matcha green tea
    10g butter

    Make the dough. In a large bowl, combine all the ingredients except for the butter and mix until it forms a rough dough.
    On an unfloured surface, start kneading the dough incorporating the butter as you do so until it forms a smooth ball; around 8 minutes.
    Place the dough back into the bowl – covered with a cloth – and leave in a warm place for 2 hours or until double in size.

    make the filling. Bring the milk to the boil. While it’s heating, mix the white and sugar in a bowl until combined. Mix in the flour and matcha green tea, and beat until homogeneous.
    When the milk is boiling, pour it over the matcha mixture, whisking as you do so. Transfer back into the pan, and cook on medium heat until thick. Mix in the butter.
    Spread it on a baking tray lined with cling film, around 20x15cm. Chill.

    Remove any air from the brioche dough by gently patting it down, then roll it into a 30x20cm rectangle. Place the matcha filling in the middle, then fold the dough over it, sealing the extremities together. Roll into a longer rectangle, then make a tour double. Repeat the folding one more time, then roll the dough back into a 30x20cm.

    Roll the dough onto itself to form a log. Trim the ends, then using a sharp knife, slice into 3cm-thick segments.

    Butter 12 5.5cm-wide rings, and place the slices into them, cut side up.

    Cover loosely with cling film, and allow to rise for 30 to 45 minutes.

    Preheat the oven to 180°C, and bake for 15 to 20 minutes or until golden brown.

  • Mastering focaccia, step by step

    Mastering focaccia, step by step

    By now, you guys should be aware that to me, Dan Lepard is to bread-making what Pierre Hermé is to pastry. My icon and absolute role model.

    I never really used to make bread, except for the occasional pizza dough; but since I’ve discovered Dan’s take on bread making I’ve literally been unstoppable. Fresh yeast has become a staple in my fridge and I’m known to run to the grocery store as soon as my flour stock approaches 2kg.

    So far, I had only made white loafs or buns; to which I regularly added ingredients such as herb butter, cheese or mashed potatoes.
    However, I needed a focaccia for the Christmas Eve dinner my sister and I were hosting. And while I firstly intended to make my reliable pizza dough, only slightly wetter; I quickly moved on Dan’s recipe. And boy, I’m glad I did!

    This focaccia is the best flat bread I’ve ever had and it’s a delight to make. Still, the whole process can seem a little daunting because of the different steps and resting times.

    Given that I really want you to make this focaccia and bite into a crusty yet moist square of this fragrant bread, I thought it would be great if we made some together. Get your aprons ready!

    Again, the mise-en-place is fundamental and will make you save precious time. Here, we’ll make a ferment then add water, oil, flour and salt.

    For the ferment, you’ll need:
    200g water at 20°C
    150g flour tipo 00 (French type 45 works well too)
    7g fresh yeast, finely crumbled

    To which you’ll add:
    150g water at 20°C
    15ml olive oil, plus extra for folding
    375g flour tipo 00
    10g fine salt

    01.

    Mix together the ingredients for the ferment in a large bowl. Cover the bowl with a cloth and leave at warm room temperature for 2 hours, giving the mixture a good stir after the first hour.
    After the resting time, the mixture should be all bubbly and have doubled in size.

    02.

    Whisk in the water and oil. Then mix in the flour and salt with a spoon, until roughly combined.
    Cover the bowl and allow to rest for 10 minutes.

    03.

    Rub your hands, the work surface and the dough with some oil and scrape the dough onto the work surface. Work the dough by gently stretching it with your right hand, keeping it in place with your left thumb. Then fold and rotate the dough. Repeat this kneading about 10 times, but make sure to stop before it starts sticking to the work surface.
    Knead again twice at 10-minute intervals. The dough will change from lumpy to smooth and elastic.
    Cover with a cloth and leave to rest for 40 minutes.

    04.

    It’s now time to do some serious stretching and folding. This will stretch and elongate the upcoming bubbles making for big and uneven holes in the final bread.
    Stretch the dough into a rectangle then fold it into thirds first in one direction then the other. Repeat this twice with 40-minute intervals.

    05.

    Once you’ve stretched-folded three times, allow the dough to rest for 30 minutes before going on with the shaping.

    06.

    Rub a baking tray with olive oil and place the dough onto it. Lightly flatten the dough using your fingers – it’s normal if it springs back. Cover with a cloth and leave in a warm place for 20 minutes.
    Preheat the oven to 220°C. Pick the corners of the dough and stretch them out until they reach the corners of the tray. Sprinkle with a little water and some oil.
    Bake for 15 minutes, then reduce the heat to 200°C and bake for a further 15 minutes. Cool on a wire rack.