Author: Fanny

  • New Orleans beignets of my dreams

    New Orleans beignets of my dreams

    I might have never been to New Orleans, but every time I make these beignets, I almost inevitably feel like I’m right in the heart of the French Quarter – where the air hums with music, and the scent of chicory coffee drifts from the iron-lace balconies.

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    New Orleans beignets

    Beignets – French for doughnuts – are made much like brioche. Flour, milk, eggs, sugar, yeast, and salt. A smooth dough, easy to work with.
    I like to place my shaped ones, ready for their final proof, onto parchment-lined trays, lightly sprayed with oil. And just before frying, I cut the paper into squares, each holding a beignet or two, and lower them into the hot oil, paper and all.
    They puff and turn golden in moments, crisp at the edges, impossibly light within. Straight from the fryer, they’re tossed in icing sugar, which melts into a delicate, fudgy glaze. Best eaten warm, while the sugar still clings to your fingertips.
    Bon Mardi Gras!!

    Notes

    On timing
    These beignets are best eaten the same day – preferably hot, fresh from the oil, when they’re at their lightest and crispest. If you need to plan ahead, you have two options: you can proof the dough overnight in the fridge, then shape, do the final rise, and fry the next day, which deepens the flavour and fits neatly into a morning schedule. Or, for a longer make-ahead option, freeze the shaped dough on a silicone mat until firm, then transfer to freezer bags, pressing out as much air as possible. When ready to fry, place the frozen beignets onto lightly greased baking trays, cover with clingfilm, and proof until doubled – around 4 hours (to account for the thawing time as well) – before frying as usual.
    On coating
    The traditional way to coat beignets is to toss them into a brown paper bag filled with icing sugar and give it a good shake – quick, effortless, and wonderfully nostalgic. A large bowl works just as well, allowing for a more controlled dusting, but either way, the goal is the same: a generous flurry of sugar while they’re still warm.
    Author: Fanny Zanotti
    Prep Time1 hour
    Cook Time30 minutes
    Total Time3 hours
    Makes 24 beignets

    Ingredients

    • 250 g whole milk
    • 2 eggs
    • 510 g plain flour
    • 55 g caster sugar
    • 20 g fresh yeast or 7g instant yeast
    • 3 g fine sea salt
    • 90 g salted butter thinly sliced
    • neutral oil for frying
    • 400 g icing sugar to coat

    Instructions

    • In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook, add the milk, eggs, flour, sugar, yeast, salt, and butter. Knead on medium speed until smooth and elastic. The dough should pass the windowpane test.
    • Lightly spray a baking dish with cooking spray – my favourite is a 23×30cm Pyrex glass dish. Transfer the dough to the dish, turning it to coat the surface. Flatten it to fill the dish evenly, and cover with clingfilm.
    • Leave to rise in a warm place until nearly doubled in size, approximately 1 hour.
    • In the meantime, prepare 2 baking trays lined with parchment paper; spray lightly with cooking spray.
    • Lightly flour your work surface. Pat the dough into a slightly larger rectangle – around 2cm thick – and dust with a little flour.
    • Using a long knife, cut the dough into 24 pieces. Place them onto the prepared trays, loosely cover with clingfilm or clean kitchen towels, and leave to rise again for around 30 minutes.
    • While the beignets are rising, heat a generous amount of neutral oil in a deep-fryer or a heavy-bottomed pot to 180°C.
    • Put the icing sugar into a brown paper bag or a large bowl.
    • Fry 4–6 beignets at a time, turning with a metal spider or tongs, until deep golden brown, around 1-1½ minutes per side.
    • Transfer the hot beignets straight into the bag of icing sugar, close tightly, and shake well to coat. Place on a cooling rack over a tray. Repeat with the remaining beignets, adding more icing sugar as needed.
  • Bagarstuga essentials

    Bagarstuga essentials

    I drew these on a quiet afternoon, thinking about the tools that are the essence of the bagarstuga [bakers’ cottage] — worn smooth by years of flour and dough. A randkavel and kruskavel for rolling the soft rye dough. A spjälka for flipping the shaped loaves. A wide bunke where dough rises slowly. The fjöla, ready to slide bread into the heat. And the simple degskrapa, scraping, folding, dividing.

    Tools that ask for nothing, but carry the stories of every loaf they’ve helped bring to life.

  • Croque-monsieur

    Croque-monsieur

    And croque-madame

    I don’t know about you, but there was a time when I’d skip the béchamel. My parents didn’t quite see it that way. It was everywhere – spooned over endives au four until they slumped and browned at the edges, tucked between sheets of lasagnes à la bolognaise, and, of course, slathered thickly over croques-monsieur, bubbling and golden from the oven.

    Dad liked his béchamel thick, creamy, and freckled with more nutmeg than seemed sensible. And croque-madame? I think it might have been one of his favourites – a lacy-edged œuf au plat perched on top, with a crisp salad glistening in vinaigrette on the side.

    Yesterday, standing in front of the fridge, wondering what to make for lunch, I found myself craving that same creamy croque-madame. Dijon mustard spread just so, a generous handful of Comté, melting into golden puddles. I wished for the herbed jambon blanc from the charcuterie window of my childhood – marbled with fat and rolled in herbes de Provence – but settled instead for thin slices of peppery smoked ham. It worked.

    The béchamel? I made it the way I like it now – smooth, with a proper grating of nutmeg and plenty of freshly milled black pepper. Funny how things change.

    Some flavours, it seems, creep up on you with age. The ones you once dismissed as too rich, too boozy, too bitter – they slip back in, softer, gentler, until you start to crave them.

    Things I used to avoid but now can’t quite resist:
    – béchamel, nutmeg-heavy, like my dad’s
    – rum raisin ice cream
    – cognac sabayon, silky and sweet
    – panettone, toasted and buttered until golden
    – orange marmalade on crisp toast
    – a glass of dry sherry, ice-cold from the fridge
    – endives, crisp and bitter, in a salad

    What about you? Are there flavours you once pushed aside that now feel like old friends?

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    Croque-monsieur

    A golden, bubbling croque-monsieur – sandwich bread slathered with creamy béchamel, layered with soft jambon blanc [ham] and a generous handful of nutty Comté, then gratinéed until the edges crisp and the cheese melts into every corner. Pair a simple salad: crisp lettuce and slender ribbons of endive, tossed in a sharp mustard vinaigrette that bites just enough!
    And if you’re after something a little more indulgent, just slip a fried egg on top – the yolk soft and golden – and you’ve got yourself a croque-madame.
    Author: Fanny Zanotti
    Prep Time20 minutes
    Cook Time20 minutes
    Makes 4

    Ingredients

    For the croque-monsieur

    • 4-16 slices jambon blanc [ham] depending on the size of the slices
    • 8 slices sandwich bread
    • 4 tsp Dijon mustard
    • Béchamel sauce see below
    • 200 g Comté cheese grated
    • Salt
    • Black pepper

    For the béchamel sauce

    • 5 dl milk
    • 50 g salted butter
    • 50 g plain flour
    • Salt
    • Black-pepper
    • A touch of freshly grated nutmeg

    For the salad

    • 1 head crisp lettuce
    • 2 endives

    For the vinaigrette

    • 1 tbsp Dijon mustard
    • 1 shallot finely chopped
    • 1 garlic clove finely grated
    • 3 tbsp red wine vinegar
    • 1 dl rapeseed oil
    • 0.5 dl olive oil
    • Salt

    Instructions

    Make the béchamel:

    • Preheat the oven to 225°C / fan 200°C. Melt the butter in a saucepan over medium heat. Stir in the flour and cook for a minute until smooth. Remove from the heat and whisk in the milk until fully combined. Return the pan to the stove and cook until the sauce thickens, whisking constantly. Season with salt, freshly ground black pepper, and a touch of grated nutmeg. Set aside.
    • Assemble the croque-monsieur:
    • Spread a thin layer of Dijon mustard over half the bread slices. Spoon béchamel on top, spreading it all the way to the edges. Add 1–4 slices of jambon blanc [ham] to each sandwich, depending on the size of the slices. Season lightly with salt and pepper, then top with grated Comté, saving some for later.
    • Spread a little béchamel on the remaining bread slices and place them on top, béchamel-side down, to form sandwiches.

    Gratinate:

    • Place the sandwiches on a baking tray lined with parchment paper. Spread with the remaining béchamel over the tops, and sprinkle generously with the grated Comté.
    • Bake for 10-15 minutes, or until golden and bubbling.

    Prepare the salad and vinaigrette:

    • In the meantime, combine the chopped shallot and grated garlic with red wine vinegar and a pinch of salt. Let sit for 5 minutes to mellow. Whisk in the Dijon mustard, then gradually add the rapeseed and olive oils, starting with rapeseed. Thin with a splash of water if the vinaigrette feels too thick.
    • Thinly slice the endives and tear the crisp lettuce into pieces. Toss the greens with the vinaigrette just before serving.

    To serve:

    • Plate the croque-monsieur hot from the oven with a generous side of salad. Top with a fried egg for a croque-madame.
  • A brioche study, part II: the ingredients

    A brioche study, part II: the ingredients

    It is February 2025. And yes, it’s been nine – NINE – years since I last wrote about this brioche study. And yet, it is one that I still think about often, perhaps because I never completed it, but also because I get emails, almost daily, requesting the parts that never were.

    Naturally, I thought I’d start where we left off. For those of you who wonder, here is the first part, describing the approach of this study. And you’ll find the control recipe here, along with notes and pictures on oven spring, crust and crumb texture.

    For an overview, click here: BRIOCHE STUDY OVERVIEW.

    CONTENT TABLE

    – Part I: the approach

    – Part II: the ingredients – this is where you are.

    – Part III: the process – method, techniques and tips

    – Recipe: brioche #1, the control

    – Recipe: brioche #2, the almost Chavot-brioche

    – Recipe: brioche #3, the pain au lait

    – Recipe: brioches #4 and #5

    – Part IV: impact of the egg-to-milk ratio in rich doughs

    – Ressources: Brioche in literature

    Explore the feature: A brioche study and follow our discoveries on instagram: #BRIOCHESTUDY.

    Today, we’ll go through the ingredients, starting with eggs and milk and working our way down. The one question we’ll try to answer is:

    How does each ingredient affect the rheological properties of brioche dough?

    Rheology is the science of of the deformation and flow of matter under applied forces. It is widely used in the scientific community to deepen the understanding of how dough will behave during the bread-making process.

    Dough has many rheological properties that can be studied using different methods, but we’re mostly going to focus on elasticity, extensibility, and strength. Other notable properties include resistance to deformation and viscosity.

    1. Elasticity, the ability of dough to stretch and return to its original shape after being deformed or stretched.
    2. Extensibility, the ability of dough to stretch without breaking. It is an essential property for shaping and forming the dough.
    3. Strength is a function of both elasticity and extensibility. The more extensible and elastic a dough is, the stronger it is considered to be.

    THE INGREDIENTS

    Eggs

    The eggs I use: Organic, weighing 50g each.

    Eggs contain a variety of molecules that can affect the rheological properties of a dough:

    – Proteins: egg whites and yolks contain different types of proteins, including ovalbumin, ovotransferrin, and ovomucin. These proteins can interact with gluten proteins in the dough, weakening the gluten network, leading to increased extensibility and decreased elasticity.

    What does it mean for a finished baked product to have higher extensibility and lower elasticity?

    Higher extensibility: a dough with higher extensibility is easier to stretch and shape. This is beneficial for certain types of bread, where a more extended shaping process is desired – for example baguettes, croissants, pizza…

    Lower elasticity: a dough with lower elasticity means that the finished product may have a softer , fluffier texture. The crumb structure might be more open and airy because the dough doesn’t resist rising as much during fermentation and baking.
    It can also mean that if not baked in a tin, the dough may spread more during baking rather than holding a tight, structured shape.

    FOLLOW-UP QUESTION

    Why is a dough that has just been mixed harder to shape than one that has rested?

    A dough that has been recently mixed is often difficult to shape because the gluten strands are still tight; during the resting period, the flour absorbs more liquid and the gluten strands relax, making the dough more pliable and easier to shape. The resting period also allows enzymes in the flour to break down starches into simple sugars, which can be fermented by the yeast and improve the flavor of the dough.

    At the same time, the egg proteins – especially albumin, the egg white proteins – provide additional strength and stability to the brioche´s crumb structure as they coagulate when the temperature reaches 80°C. In fact as the egg white protein set, they form a solid mass which gives additional structure to the bread, contributing to its overall volume.

    It is also worth noting that the egg proteins also have a role in the organoleptic qualities of brioche. They do indeed participate in the Maillard reaction, also called non-enzymatic browning that occurs when proteins and sugars react under heat. This reaction contributes to the crust colour and the flavour of the brioche.

    Organoleptic qualities

    Organoleptic qualities refer to the aspects of a substance, that create an individual experience via the senses. This includes taste, colour, odour, and feel. These qualities are often used in the evaluation of food products, but also in other fields.

    – Lipids: egg yolks are high in fat, which has a tenderising effect on the dough by interfering with its gluten development. By coating the gluten proteins and preventing them from forming a strong network, lipids make a dough less elastic and more extensible, leading to a more tender and delicate crumb in the final product.

    The lipids in egg yolks also provides a richness of flavour.

    – Emulsifiers: egg yolks contain natural emulsifiers, most notably lecithin, which helps stabilise the emulsion of fat and water in the dough. This contributes to a smoother, more uniform texture in the finished product.

    Milk

    The milk I use: 3% fat.

    Whole milk is a complex liquid that contains several components, each of which can influence the rheological and organoleptic properties of dough in different ways:

    – Water: the water in milk increases dough hydration, a fundamental point for both gluten development and starch gelatinization.

    – Proteins: milk proteins, particularly caseins and whey proteins, interact with the gluten network. They can lead to increased elasticity. The amino acids from these proteins also participate in Maillard reactions during baking, along with the milk sugars.

    What does an increased elasticity mean for the finished baked product?

    Increased elasticity in a dough can lead to:
    – a denser crumb: as the dough resists rising during fermentation and baking, the brioche will have smaller, more evenly distributed air pockets.
    – a structured shape: the dough is more likely to hold its shape during baking, even if not baked in a tin. This is because a dough with increased elasticity resists deformation and tends to spring back to its original shape.
    – a chewier texture: on a molecular level, highly elastic doughs often mean a more tighly-wound gluten matrix, which makes for a firmer, chewier texture.

    FLour

    The flour I use: Swedish plain flour, averaging at 10% protein content.

    Flour is the primary structural component of brioche dough. Although you could possibly make brioche from virtually any flour containing gluten-forming proteins, we will stick to plain wheat flour today.

    FOLLOW-UP QUESTION

    How is the best way to incorporate whole grain flours in brioche? And how far can you push the substitution?

    Whole grain flours are ground from whole, unprocessed wheat kernels, grains, or seeds. Unlike refined flours, such as plain flour, whole grain flours include the germ and bran, which are more absorbent (the bran is rich in pentosans, a family of polysaccharides that can absorb up to 15 times their weight). In practice, this means that the total dough hydration needs to be increased to allow for gluten development.

    In her fantastic newsletter, Nicola Lamb, writes that one can substitute around 30% of the total flour by weight. She also mentions a wonderful technique, which I’ve also been partial to, which consists in separating the bran, and soaking or cooking a porridge before re-incorporating it in the dough. This way, you get the wonderful nutty flavours of whole grain flour without it being detrimental to gluten development.

    Read more here: https://kitchenprojects.substack.com/p/kitchen-project-38-tart-tropezienne

    TO DO: test different brioche doughs made using whole grain flours.

    – Proteins: the most important proteins in flour – both for their function but also by their occurrence – are glutenin and gliadin. These two proteins are the building blocks of gluten – when water or a liquid containing water, like milk or eggs, is added to these proteins, they link together, forming gluten.

    Glutenin gives the dough extensibility, while gliadin contributes to its elasticity.

    The protein content in flour varies greatly depending on the type of flour. The one I used: kärnvetemjöl, has a protein percentage of 10% – the standard for Swedish plain flour, slightly lower that English or American all-purpose.

    Although, the protein content in flour is crucial, it can also be misleading – some flours can be rich in proteins but relatively poor in glutenin and gliadin. However, on paper, higher protein flours can absorb more water and form a stronger gluten network, resulting in a dough with greater elasticity and strength. This means the dough can stretch more without tearing, allowing it to trap the gases produced during fermentation and rise effectively.

    FOLLOW-UP QUESTION

    How does the protein content of flour affect the rheological and organoleptic properties of brioche – both dough and finished product?

    In order to answer this question concretely, we’ll need to conduct a new mixture-design experiment, with the protein content of flour as a variable.

    TO DO: test different brioche doughs made using flours with varying protein content.

    – Starch: forms around 70-75% of flour. It absorbs water and swells during baking. This process is called gelatinization. As gas bubbles in the dough expand and eventually burst to form a porous structure, the starch gel and coagulated gluten matrix surrounding these bubbles increase in viscosity, forming a firm structure, essential for setting crumb structure and texture.

    Sugar

    The sugar I use: plain caster sugar.

    Caster sugar is made of sucrose, a disaccharide that affect both the rheological and organoleptic properties of brioche.

    Sugar significantly influences the taste and colour of the finished product. It enhances the sweetness, and contributes to a golden-brown crust through the Maillard reaction that occurs during baking.

    Sugar also affects the crumb texture. In fact, the hygroscopic nature of sugar allows it to absorb moisture and retain it over time, resulting in a softer loaf.

    hygro·scop·ic
    adjective
    (of a substance) tending to absorb moisture from the air.

    Of course, sugar acts as food for the yeast in the fermentation process.

    FOLLOW-UP QUESTION

    How do different proportions of caster sugar in the dough affect the finished product?

    I feel like it would be a fun experiment to conduct a mixture-design using sugar as a variable.

    TO DO:
    – test different brioche doughs made using varying levels of caster sugar in the formula
    – read the following reasearch paper: Timmermans, E.(2022). Sugar Levels Determine Fermentation Dynamics during Yeast Pastry Making and Its Impact on Dough and Product Characteristics. Foods, 11(10), 13881

    Salt

    The salt I use: both flaky sea salt and fine salt.
    It’s worth noting that different salts have different volumes, making it difficult to substitute flaky salt for fine salt if using spoon-measures. By weight, I’ve found that there is virtually no difference between these two salts, however, certain salts, like Himalayan salt are much less salty.

    Salt strengthens the gluten network in the dough, which improves its elasticity and extensibility. This results in a dough that is easier to handle and shape.
    It also regulates the rate of yeast fermentation by slowing it down.

    And perhaps most importantly, salt enhances the flavour of the brioche.

    Yeast

    The yeast I use: fresh yeast.

    Substituting fresh yeast

    For 10g of fresh yeast, use either 5g of active dry yeast (approximately one teaspoon: 5mL) or 3g of instant yeast (a heaped half teaspoon: 2.5mL). Note that the active dry yeast should be rehydrated in warm water or milk (around 40°C) for 5 to 10 minutes; however, both fresh yeast and instant yeast can be weighed out along with the flour, and used as is in the recipe.

    Note: If making a very wet dough with over 80% hydration, I tend to crumble my fresh yeast to make sure it gets fully incorporated; otherwise, I just leave it into large chunks and let the kneading do the job.

    Fresh yeast is made of Saccharomyces cerevisiae cells. In the right settings, yeast will convert sugar and starch into carbon dioxide and alcohol – this process is called fermentation.

    FOLLOW-UP QUESTION

    How does fermentation time affect the qualities of the finished product

    I would love to test one brioche dough and see how far we can push the fermentation.

    TO DO:
    – make a dough and test different fermentation times under constant settings like temperature and humidity

    FOLLOW-UP QUESTIONS AND NOTES

    1. Tangzhong method

    How does adding a tangzhong (a cooked flour-water paste) alter the hydration and softness of brioche?

    – Experiment: Test a brioche with and without tangzhong and compare moisture retention over time.
    – Suggested reading:The Food Lab by J. Kenji López-Alt (discusses hydration techniques in bread baking).

    2. Pre-ferments

    How does using a pre-ferment (such as a poolish or sponge) change the flavor complexity and structure of brioche?

    – Experiment: Make three brioches: one with direct yeast addition, one with poolish, and one with a stiff biga.

    3. Impact of hydration on brioche crumb

    How does altering the hydration level affect the crumb structure and softness? How much can hydration be increased while maintaining dough integrity?

    4. Effects of the cold fermentation

    How does a long cold proof (12-48 hours) change the gluten structure and overall rise compared to a same-day bake? Is the ideal proofing time different for dough with pre-ferments?

    5. Butter incorporation methods

    Should butter be added in one stage, or would gradual emulsification affect texture positively?

    Experiment: Compare direct incorporation vs. gradual mixing at different butter %.

    6. Dough temperature before baking

    What is the optimal final dough temperature before baking?

  • Three-day strawberry jam, à la Christine Ferber

    Three-day strawberry jam, à la Christine Ferber

    I first made this recipe a few weeks before my mom came to visit from the south of France last autumn. She loves her morning toast – always a baguette, always unsalted butter, thickly spread. I can’t quite agree – I want salted butter, the kind that pushes back against the sweetness of the jam.

    Most times, I make my usual recipe, the one I’ve relied on since 2009, back when I first worked with Andrew Gravett. But this time, I felt like trying something different. Christine Ferber’s method – slow and deliberate. Pierre Hermé has always sworn by her jams, and he’s never wrong.

     

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    Three-day strawberry jam

    Adapted from Christine Ferber's Mes confitures: jams and jellies.
    There’s a quiet kind of magic in slow preserves – the way sugar and time work together to turn fruit into something more than itself. This one starts with strawberries, small and fragrant, macerated overnight until they glisten. The process takes three days, like most Christine Ferber's jams and preserves – an institution in itself.

    Notes

    A note on using frozen strawberries:
    I always – always – freeze strawberries in the summer. I wash and hull them first, then freeze them on a tray before packing them into freezer bags. They work exceptionally well in smoothies, compotes, and of course, jams.
    I use them straight from the freezer – no need to defrost – keeping them whole. The sugar and lemon juice draw out their juices as they macerate, turning them into something almost candied. The result is a jam that’s less spreadable, with whole strawberries suspended in a thick, glossy syrup.
    Author: Fanny Zanotti
    Prep Time10 minutes
    Cook Time45 minutes
    Total Time3 days 55 minutes

    Ingredients

    • 1 kg hulled and quartered strawberries
    • 850 g caster sugar
    • Juice of one small lemon

    Instructions

    Day 1

    • Place the strawberries into a large non-reactive bowl. Add the caster sugar and lemon juice, stir, and cover with clingfilm. Leave to macerate overnight in the fridge.

    Day 2

    • By morning, the strawberries will have given up their juices. Tip everything into a pot and bring it to a gentle simmer. Pour it all back into the bowl, cover, and return to the fridge for another night.

    Day 3

    • Strain the strawberries, letting the syrup run through a fine sieve. Bring the syrup to a boil, skimming off any foam, and let it cook until it reaches 105°C.
    • Add the strawberries back in and bring everything to a rolling boil.
    • Skim again, stir gently, and let it cook for 5 more minutes. The syrup should be thick enough to coat a spoon, and the strawberries should shine – translucent and almost candied.
    • Spoon into warm jars, seal, and let cool. Then, find a reason to open one – some good bread, a spoonful over yogurt, or just because.

  • Crêpes complètes

    Crêpes complètes

    And my classical pâte à crêpes [crêpe batter] recipe!

    I’m often asked about the difference between French crêpes and Swedish plättar. It’s a fair question – they share, after all, the same simple pantry ingredients: milk, eggs, flour, salt, sugar and butter. But where crêpes spread thin across a wide pan, plättar are poured into a special cast-iron griddle, forming small, perfectly round pancakes.

    In my world, crêpes are meant to be folded, rolled, filled; while plättar are stacked, eaten by the dozen – best with a spoonful of jam and a cloud of loosely whipped cream.

    I’ve shared my plättar recipe in the past, and it’s still an everyday favourite, happening in our kitchen on an almost-weekly basis. Sometimes, I will even make savoury plättar, although I must admit I’m fond of the slightly chewier, sturdier texture of crêpes for this.
    However, since moving to Sweden, I’ve adapted my crêpe recipe: adding more salt and always using my trusted cast-iron pannkakspanna.

    Let’s have a look at the different ratios between crêpes and plättar. While both share the same base ingredients – milk, eggs, flour, butter, and salt – their proportions create distinct textures.

    Crêpes vs plättar

    CrêpesBakers %PlättarBakers %
    Milk500 ml200%500 ml277.8%
    Eggs480%255.6%
    Flour250 g100%180 g100%
    Butter50 g20%30 g16.7%
    Flaky sea salt2.5 g1%2.5 g1.4%

    Crêpes have a higher proportion of eggs and flour to liquid, giving them structure and elasticity. This makes them sturdy enough to be folded, rolled, or wrapped around both sweet and savoury fillings. The added chewiness also means they hold up well.

    Plättar, on the other hand, have more milk relative to flour and fewer eggs, resulting in a looser, more fluid batter. This makes them feel more custardy than crêpes, with a soft, tender texture. They are also cooked in a larger amount of salted butter, which pools around each pancake, creating lacy, crisp, golden edges with a hint of saltiness.

    Bonne chandeleur!

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    Crêpes complètes

    A thin, golden crêpe, crisp at the edges, soft in the center. The kind you fold around ham, cheese, and a runny egg for a classic crêpe complète or stack with butter and sugar, and a drizzle of lemon juice, for something simple and sweet.
    When making crêpes complètes, one has to stand by the stove, making and serving the crêpes one by one. With the leftover batter, I always make a stack of crêpes, later eaten with jam, crème de marron and chantilly (a favourite), or simply sugar and lemon juice.
    More often than not, I use my basic recipe for both savoury and sweet crêpes. However, if you wanted to make only sweet ones – for a goûter – you’ll find what I usually add to the batter in the notes below.

    Notes

    – For a sweet pâte à crêpes, add 2 tbsp sugar, 1 tbsp vanilla extract, and 2 tbsp dark rum or orange blossom water to the batter.
    – If the batter thickens too much after resting, whisk in a little water to reach a thin, pourable consistency.
    – To grease the pan, my mémé, grand-mère, and my mum always used a halved potato dipped in melted butter or oil. I still do, and often wonder if this is just something we do, or if more people know about it. It works beautifully – coating the pan evenly without excess fat and keeping the crêpes from sticking.
    – This cast-iron pan by Swedish Skeppshult is my ride-or-die whenever making pancakes and crêpes!
    Author: Fanny Zanotti
    Prep Time10 minutes
    Cook Time30 minutes
    Makes 12 22cm crêpes

    Ingredients

    For the batter

    • 250 g plain flour
    • 4 eggs
    • 500 ml milk
    • 50 g melted butter
    • 1 tsp flaky sea salt

    For cooking

    • Butter for the pan

    For a classic crêpe complète (per crêpe)

    • 40 g grated Emmental or cheese of choice
    • 1 slice of ham
    • 1 egg pan-fried sunny-side up

    Instructions

    • In a large bowl, whisk together the eggs, milk, flour and salt into a lumpy batter. Blend using a hand blender, until just smooth. Adjust the batter consistency with a dash of water if needed.
    • Add the melted butter, and blend until incorporated.
    • Cover and let the batter rest for 30 minutes.
    • Heat a knob of butter in a pan over medium heat. Pour in a ladleful of batter, swirling to coat the base. Cook until the surface looks set and no wet patches remain.
    • Sprinkle the cheese evenly over the crêpe, then place a slice of ham and a pan-fried egg in the center.
    • Fold in the edges of the crêpe to create a triangle or a square, leaving the yolk visible in the center. Cook for another minute, then serve immediately.

  • Birdwatching on a cold February morning

    Birdwatching on a cold February morning

    A morning spent outside, the snow crisp and sparkling – minus 16 degrees in the air. Standing quiet behind a tree, watching talgoxar [great tits] and nötväckor [nuthatches] dart between the branches.

    I could have stayed there for hours.

    — Watch on Tiktok.

  • New York City’s Levain-style chocolate chip cookies

    New York City’s Levain-style chocolate chip cookies

    I’m not quite sure how I escaped it, but I only came across New York City’s Levain Bakery cookies a few months ago, despite their legendary status.

    After hours of research – comparing recipes, watching a 2008 video where the bakery’s founders shape the dough together . and a few tests in my own kitchen, I finally have a go-to recipe. Not quite the same as a flight to New York, but close enough.

    Six-ounce cookies with a deep golden crust and a fudgy crumb. I baked a few straight away, then tucked the rest into the freezer for later – because knowing they’re there, waiting, is a pleasure in itself.

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    New York City’s Levain-style chocolate chip cookies

    Adapted from Hijabs and Aprons.
    Big, craggy, gooey-in-the-middle cookies inspired by the ones from New York's Levain bakery. Perfect with a glass of cold milk or an afternoon coffee.
    I find that these are even better on the day after I bake them. 
    I usually make a couple of big ones – weighing 160-170g – then roll the rest in smaller balls – approximately 60-70g each – and freeze for later use. 

    Notes

    On baking smaller cookies
    For smaller cookies, divide dough into 60-70g portions and bake for 10-12 minutes.
    On freezing cookie dough balls
    To freeze dough balls, place them on a tray lined with baking paper and freeze until solid. Then, transfer them to a freezer bag. To remove excess air without a vacuum sealer, insert a straw into the bag’s opening, seal the bag around the straw, and suck out the air. Quickly seal the bag upon removing the straw.
    When ready to bake, place the frozen dough balls directly on a baking sheet and bake, adding a couple of extra minutes to the usual baking time.
    On vanilla sugar
    Vanilla sugar is a staple in many French and Swedish homes. However, a teaspoonful of vanilla extract will do the trick if you don’t have any on hand.
    If you wish, you can even make your own vanilla sugar. I always collect used vanilla pods, wash them if needed, and leave them to dry in a pot in my skafferi [pantry] until crisp. Then, I mix 3-4 dried pods with 200-300g of caster sugar, grind them to a powder, and store it in an airtight container.
    Author: Fanny Zanotti
    Prep Time30 minutes
    Cook Time15 minutes
    Total Time2 hours 45 minutes
    Makes 8 large cookies

    Ingredients

    • 115 g salted butter at room temperature
    • 200 g light muscovado sugar
    • 50 g golden caster sugar
    • 1 tsp vanilla sugar
    • 1 tsp flaky sea salt
    • 2 eggs
    • 300 g plain flour
    • 1½ tsp baking powder
    • 1 tsp baking soda
    • 250 g walnuts roughly chopped
    • 300 g dark chocolate chips I used Callebaut’s 56.9%

    Instructions

    • Preheat the oven to 190°C / fan 170°C. Line one or two baking sheets with baking paper.
    • In a large mixing bowl, beat the butter, sugars, and salt until creamy, about 3 minutes.
    • Add the eggs, one at a time, mixing well after each addition.
    • In a separate bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, and baking soda. Add to the wet ingredients and mix until just combined. Fold in the walnuts and chocolate chips.
    • Divide the dough into 8 rough balls, about 160-170g each. Shape them loosely into balls.
    • Place on the lined baking sheet, spacing them apart.
    • Bake for 14-16 minutes, until the tops are golden brown with lighter patches. Let the cookies set on the hot tray for at least 10 minutes before moving them – this allows the centers to firm up.
    • Allow to cool down completely, and store into an airtight container.

  • Buttermilk biscuits

    Buttermilk biscuits

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    Buttermilk biscuits

    Adapted from Sally’s Baking Recipes.
    This recipe is a staple in our home for late week-end breakfasts and quick school-night dinners. I love to serve them with bacon and fried eggs, and loads of freshly-sliced vegetables.
    They also make for a perfect afternoon fika, with whipped cream, jam, and fresh berries.
    As with every biscuit recipe, it is fundamental not to overmix the dough. I usually mix in the butter until rather large chunks are left, then add the buttermilk and mix until JUST combined.
    This produces very soft and flaky biscuits, exactly as they should be.
    Author: Fanny Zanotti
    Prep Time30 minutes
    Cook Time20 minutes
    Total Time50 minutes

    Ingredients

    • 310 g plain flour
    • 2 tbsp baking powder
    • 1 tbsp caster sugar
    • 1 tsp flaky sea salt
    • 120 g salted butter very cold and cubed
    • 240 ml cold buttermilk
    • whipping cream to brush

    Instructions

    • Preheat the oven to 220°C / fan 200°C. Line a baking tray with baking paper.
    • Make the dough. In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, sugar, and salt. Add the cubed butter and rub it into the flour with your fingertips until the mixture resembles rolled oats.
    • Make a well in the centre, and pour in the buttermilk. Gently fold everything together with a spoon or spatula until it just starts to come together. The dough should look rough and slightly crumbly in places.
    • Tip the dough onto a floured surface and bring it together using your hands. Pat into a 2cm thick rectangle and do 3 consecutive letter folds, rotating the dough 90 degrees between each turn.
    • Cut the biscuits. Roll or pat the dough to 2cm thick, then cut into a 3x6cm biscuits. Gather any scraps, reshape, and cut out more until all the dough is used.
    • Bake. Arrange the biscuits close together on the prepared tray, so they support each other as they rise. Brush the tops with whipping cream, and bake for 15–18 minutes or until golden-brown.
  • Start a new sourdough starter with me

    Start a new sourdough starter with me

    There’s something special about new beginnings. A clean jar, a fresh bag of flour, the quiet anticipation of what’s to come.

    A sourdough – flour and water, mixed together and left to rest. At first, nothing much happens. Then, after a couple of days, tiny bubbles appear, a sign that wild yeasts and bacteria are waking up. The smell shifts – sweet and slightly tangy, reminiscent of yoghurt and apple cider vinegar.

    I’ve made many starters over the years. Some I’ve carried with me across kitchens, feeding them daily. Others I’ve left too long in the back of the fridge, until they turned greyish, then still. But now, in the quiet of winter, I feel like starting again.

    I’m doing as I always have – a 100% hydration starter, equal parts flour and water. It’s familiar, reliable, and the foundation of so many loaves I’ve loved. But I’ve been reading about stiff starters – not unlike a sourdough biga – and I’m curious. Perhaps next time! 

    For now, it’s just organic wheat flour, full of natural yeasts, and lukewarm water. 

    If you’ve never made a sourdough starter before, now is as good a time as any. The process is slow, but that’s part of the charm. Stir, wait, feed, repeat.

    Are you starting one too?

    There are as many ways to start a starter as there are bakers – really, you could talk to two hundred people and get two hundred different processes. I like to keep things simple, because it shouldn’t have to be complicated.

    I’ve written down my method, the one I follow loosely. Twenty-two hours instead of twenty-four? That IS okay. The “recipe” is in grams, though I’m mostly partial to my Swedish decilitermått [measuring cups that fit 1dl = 100ml]. And while I write 50g/50g on paper, in practice it’s usually a little over ½ dl water (about 60g) and 1dl flour (scooped and scraped, around 60–65g) – especially once the starter is established and I’m discarding or baking, and feeding daily.

    DAY ONE

    In a clean jar, mix 50g of lukewarm water (30°C and filtered if needed) and 50g ORGANIC plain flour. Stir well, cover with a lid, and place somewhere warm-ish – 22-24°C. You might want to write the time on your starter jar for future reference.

    Notes: When mixing water and flour, I ALWAYS start with the water to avoid pockets of flour at the bottom of my mixing container/bowl.

    DAY TWO

    Timeline: 24 hours after you first mixed the starter.

    Add 50g lukewarm water and 50g of flour. Mix well, cover with a lid, and leave to rest. The starter now weighs 200g.

    Our feeding ratio for day 2 is 2:1:1 (starter:flour:water) – the first couple of days is possibly the only time I would have more starter than water/flour.

    Notes: No discard on the second day!

    DAY THREE

    Timeline: 24 hours after the last feed. Keep in mind that depending on whether you started your starter in the morning or evening, your next feed will be 12 hours after this step.

    You might have started seeing some activity in your starter – totally normal for it to smell slightly cheesy at this stage. This comes from lactic acid bacteria, which are also found in yogurt and cheese.

    Stir your starter, then place onto scales and tare. Discard starter so that you get -125g on the scales – we’re saving 75g starter. Now, add 50g lukewarm water and 50g of flour. Mix well, cover with a lid, and leave to rest. The starter now weighs 175g.

    Our feeding ratio for day 3 is 3:2:2. Depending on whether you starter you starter in the morning or in the evening, you’re going to have to next feed it 12 hours after this step.

    Notes: I like to stir my sourdough starter before discarding and feeding. This ensures the wild yeasts and bacteria are evenly distributed, promoting consistent fermentation.

    DAY FOUR & FIVE

    Timeline: We’re going to do two feeds today – one 12 hours after the last feed and another one 12 hours later.
    I, of course, forgot to feed my starter after 12 hours last night, so it ended up being closer to 20. I couldn’t help myself and added some rye to the mix today. To keep things consistent, I usually mix 350g organic flour with 150g coarse rye flour, which I’ll use for feeding my starter from now on.

    On Day 4, you’ll follow the instructions for both the first and second feed. After that – Day 5 and so on – you’ll only perform the second feed but TWICE a day – discarding 100g of starter and feeding as follows.

    First feed:

    Stir your starter, then place onto scales and tare. Discard starter so that you get -150g on the scales – we’re saving 25g starter. Now, add 50g lukewarm water and 50g of rye flour mix (read note above). Mix well, cover with a lid, and leave to rest. The starter now weighs 125g.

    Second feed:

    Stir your starter, then place onto scales and tare. Discard starter so that you get -100g on the scales – we’re saving 25g starter. Now, add 50g lukewarm water and 50g of rye flour. Mix well, cover with a lid, and leave to rest. The starter weighs again 125g.

    Our feeding ratio for day 4 & 5 is 1:2:2.

     

    DAY SIX & more

    Is your starter ready to bake with?

    Look for consistent fermentation patterns: it should reliably double in size within 4–6 hours of feeding and have a pleasantly tangy smell. If not, keep repeating the process from Day 5 : discard 100g, feed with 50g lukewarm water and 50g flour mix, twice a day, until it gains strength

    If your starter is ready, you can now bake with it – simply mix a levain as written in your bread recipe. Keep in mind that a starter strengthens over time; it typically takes around one month to become fully developed.
    Now is also the time to transition to a maintenance feeding schedule: save 6g of starter and feed using 60g lukewarm water and 60g flour mix. 

     

    ON FEEDING RATIOS

    Feeding ratios are written as starter:flour:water. For example, 1:2:2 means 1 part starter, 2 parts flour, and 2 parts water, all measured by weight. Keeping a consistent ratio helps maintain a healthy, active starter.

    Adjusting the ratio changes how your starter ferments. Higher ratios (e.g. 1:5:5) provide more food, slowing fermentation and extending the time before it peaks. Lower ratios (e.g. 1:1:1) speed things up, making the starter ready sooner. The right ratio depends on your room temperature, how quickly you need your starter, and your baking schedule.

    Common feeding ratios:

    – 1:1:1  A quick feed. Good if you plan to bake within a few hours, as the starter becomes active in 4-5 hours at room temperature.

    – 1:2:2 or 1:3:3  A longer fermentation, ready in 8-12 hours.

    – 1:5:5 or 1:6:6  A slow, steady feed, great for strengthening your starter. I love using this for overnight feeds or even maintenance (10g starter:50–60g both water and flour), so that my starter is ready to bake with first thing in the morning. It’s also a great way to increase the total weight of your starter, especially if your recipe calls for 200–300g of starter or levain.

    – 1:10:10 The ultimate maintenance feed!

    More than a strict and unmovable rule to follow, adjusting the feeding ratio is a way to make sourdough work for you – fitting baking into your timeline rather than the other way around.

  • Pearlescent clouds

    Pearlescent clouds

    The sky these days, or just a dream? No but seriously have you ever seen pärlemormoln [pearlescent clouds], as we call them in Swedish?

    A pale canvas, slowly awakening after months of nights, brushed with mother-of-pearl – soft greens, pinks, and blues, shimmering quietly in the cold.

    They form high in the stratosphere where it’s cold enough for ice crystals to scatter light into these fleeting colors. Rare and delicate, they appear just before sunrise or linger after sunset, catching the sun’s rays long before they reach the ground.

    We stood in the yard, Sienna with her sled and Stor Nalle in tow. “Do you think we’ll see them again?” she asked, her face turned toward the sky, cheeks red from the wind. “Maybe,” I said. “Maybe not. That’s what makes them special.”